Viewing entries in
China Institute

Personal Notes: In a Time of Chaos

SZ @ China Institute

Art in the Time of Chaos, China Institute Gallery, 2016Photo credit: Perry Hu

Art in the Time of Chaos, China Institute Gallery, 2016

Photo credit: Perry Hu

“What a shock to wake up one morning and find armed men, who spoke no language you knew and looked like no people you’d ever seen, roaming the streets of your city.” With these words, Holland Cotter, the Asian art critic of New York Times, opens his review on China Institute’s fall 2016 exhibition, Art in a Time of Chaos: Masterworks of Six Dynasties China, 3rd to 6th Centuries. (Chinese History, Writ in Stunning Stone, 11/17/2016).

It’s New York on November 17, 2016. I can’t help but think Cotter does not just refer to the nearly four hundred-year division and chaos in China more than 1,500 years ago.

Standing next to “Art in a Time of Chaos: Masterworks of Six Dynasties China, 3rd to 6th Centuries” written in burning red letters against a deep blue background, I often tell visitors before entering the gallery, “There are 115 objects from 3 museums in China in this gallery behind me, and the youngest is from fourteen hundred years ago.”

I would pause for a few seconds to let the historical distance sink in before silently push the heavy glass door open. Walking into a tiny room with all four walls in dark purple, everyone would suddenly face a small group of Celadon musician figurines from 3rd A.D.

Each figurine is less than 3 inches tall, some playing Qin (an instrument associated with cultured elites from ancient time China till today), some just standing or sitting with folding or open arms. They all share similar facial features with almond-shaped eyes, round cheek and hair tied up on top of the head with a stick.

Except for one.

He is notably shorter, standing with his right foot stepping forward, arms missing. His nose is pointier, cheekbones higher, and most unusually, he wears a triangle-shaped pointed hat. Art historians like Annette Juliano, guest curator of the exhibition and professor of Asian art history at Rutgers University, would immediately identify him as a huren, a non-Han (or non-Chinese), from a nomadic tribe in northern China.

Six Dynasties were in chaos precisely because China back then was divided into southern dynasties with Chinese courts ruled by Han, and northern dynasties controlled by mainly Xianbei, among many other northern nomads. It was a period of almost 400 years of political division, wars and murders, and frequent social upheavals. While politically defeated and yet with an obvious sense of privilege of the Han culture, Chinese, or hanren (), referred to their northern neighbors “huren” (胡人), often with a derogative connotation. In fact, the term “Six Dynasties” is Han-centric in itself as it refers to only the dynasties with capitals in Jiankang (today’s Nanjing), the center of the Han power in southern dynasties. While some hanren during Six Dynasties would strongly resist huren influence (and some are still insisting even today), there is plenty of evidence from Chinese history, as examples in this exhibition, that hanren, after this chaotic 400-year cultural integration with northern huren, and foreigners from Central Asia, Indian, or regions even further in the west, were no longer the same hanren in Han Dynasty, the big, powerful, united empire lasting about four hundred years prior to Six Dynasties.

Besides the celadon musicians from the south (unearthed near Nanjing), I often would point to the visitors a yellowish celadon flask discovered in the north. On its body are two sitting lions, with a slim male figure with deep eyes and curly beard in between, presumably training the two lions for entertainment. “Sogdians and Sasanians from Central Asia were very active along the Silk Road, traveling, trading, and exchanging religions, arts and skills wherever they went.” For someone who didn’t know much of Central Asia history in 3rd A.D. before studying for this exhibition, I would enjoy secretly the little pleasure for being able to talk about Sogdians and Sasanians at all. Morris Rossabi, a renowned scholar on Inner Asian and East Asian history at Columbia University, and working with China Institute for years, gave a 3-hour lecture to K-12 educators on Six Dynasties one Saturday and spent a good amount of time talking about these two groups, unknown to many Americans and Chinese. The figure on the flask, probably a Sassanian, together with a silver plate depicting a Persian prince hunting three boars (according to stories from Zoroastrianism, the state religion of the Persian Empire), and the stone panels and mural from the sarcophagus belonging to Yu Hong, a Sogdian and elite official in the court of Northern Qi, a later northern dynasty, collectively present a time when people, cultures, and objects flew in and out of China.

Picturing the world map during China’s Six Dynasties is fascinating too. In the West, a powerful empire established by Constantine was rising after the Roman Empire came to its end. Byzantine Empire, with its peak around 5th and 6th A.D., would “watch” from afar its contemporary Chinese dynasties trying to figure out in what shape they would come out of the chaos. In Central Asia, the Sassanian would have just risen into power around 3rd A.D. in southern Iran as the last powerful Persian Empire. By 6th A.D., before China came together in one piece again (as this was not the first time China was divided, neither the last time), the Sasanian Empire would have been weakened by conflicts with Byzantine Empire and lost their battles with the Arab armies of Islam. Their rulers would seek asylum in China, probably the Northern Zhou, or Northern Qi (the last two northern dynasties). Meanwhile, in the Indian subcontinent, a good part of this period witnessed the rising and falling of the Gupta Empire, which, according to Wikipedia (“the source of all knowledge” as I would joke these days), was the “Golden Age of India” when extensive innovations in science and developments in arts, religions, literature, philosophy, and all aspects of human life imaginable at that time period, flourished. 

That probably explains the flourish of Buddhism in China during the Six Dynasties. My favorite of all pieces in this entire exhibition is a sandstone head of a Bodhisattva from around 550 C.E. from Northern Qi Dynasty (today’s north-eastern region in China including Shandong, Henan, Hebei, etc.). In a feminine image with plump round cheek and eyes gently closed, the Bodhisattva, radiating peace and calm in a quiet corner on a tall stand against the brick-red wall, would instantly yet quietly shed the noise most visitors carry, vocally, or in their minds.

Don’t get me wrong. Chinese culture with its core established by hanren was still predominant and thriving. Wang Xizhi, the Sage of Calligraphy, and the legendary “Preface of the Orchid Pavilion”, were from this period. His original writing of the Orchid Pavilion might be lost in the tomb of a Tang Dynasty emperor, though the running and cursive style of calligraphy he started and the true artistic spirit his works expressed, were set to be followed by generations of Chinese calligraphers, artists, and in general, all well educated Chinese. The same spirit is also exampled by the Seven Sages of the Bamboo Grove, who appeared on the rubbings of a tomb mural and four panels of the brick mural itself. Whatever the history books say about these sages, I would tell people they were the fashion leaders of the day. They were philosophers, musicians, artists, poets, and wine lovers.  The so called “Neo-Daoism” escaping from the suffering reality for an idealistic peaceful world closer to the nature, was best represented by their life style and tales (as recorded in the “New Tales of the World” 《世说新语》by Liu Yiqing), and preserved on the mural for the visitors in New York 1,500 years later to admire, and surprisingly, to resonate. Cotter mentions one particular sage, Liu Ling, who is most known as a wine lover and legendarily hired a servant carrying a shovel following him around, with a standing order to bury Liu immediately on the spot if he drops dead. Liu Ling ended up retreating from the court and passed away peacefully at home. However, not all of the seven sages were so lucky. Ji Kang (嵇康), the most famous one, was in fact sentenced to death after losing a political battle. Regardless, thousands of years later, they were still in the mural, sitting under ginkgo trees in loose robes, drinking, playing music, and probably enjoying their “witty conversations” that would make them forget about the chaotic reality for a moment.

Drinking is not a recommended alternative of the chaotic world. Art and literature are. On the evening of Nov. 9, a public lecture on literature in Six Dynasties was given by Mr. Ben Wang, Senior Lecturer on Humanities at China Institute for over 30 years. As usual, I opened the evening with a brief introduction of Mr. Wang, and also said,  “Thank God we have art and literature to turn to in a world of chaos.” It was the day after the election. To many New Yorkers, it was still a shock to wake up in a world with Trump as the President-elect. The audience didn’t say anything, but smiled and continued to listen to Mr. Ben Wang’s lecture, on Returning Home (《归去来辞》),by Tao Yuanming (陶渊明), who’s known to many Chinese since middle school with his “Peach Blossom Spring” (《桃花源记》), describing a fictional world secluded from the real world and thus enjoying peace undisturbed by wars and sufferings for generations.

A forever-peaceful “Peach Blossom Spring” could only exist in Tao Yuanming’s poem. However, I could truly enjoy a peaceful moment by standing in front my favorite Bodhisattva in the gallery for a few minutes, ignoring the busy work in office just next door, or other visitors walking around (which are not many anyway).

At China Institute, people have joked that next time, Willow Weilan Hai, Director of China Institute Gallery and the curator of this exhibition, MUST select a much more peaceful and serene theme, given how accurately this exhibition predicts what’s happening now in the world.

11/27/2016

Astoria, New York


Related links:

A resource collection on the exhibition: http://china360online.org/?property=introduction-to-dark-ages-in-china-220-581

 

A Day in New York: Chinese Contemporary Poetry and Subway

SZ @ China Institute

R Train in Rector Street, New York City

R Train in Rector Street, New York City

Of course a story about New York has to have something to do with the subway.

Recently I am reading a book “ Goodbye to All That: Writers on Loving and Leaving New York” (not that I’m thinking of leaving New York, or am I?), and almost every single one of the 28 writers talks about New York subway ----how old, cramped, smelly, and unbearably frustrating it is----and yet, it has became so quintessentially New York, even a story on a day about poetry can’t avoid it.

It was October 22, Saturday. I went to China Institute for the first seminar of a series: Expanding the Boundaries of Chinese Poetry, given by Yibing Huang, known by his pen name Mai Mang (麦芒) , who established himself as a poet in China in the 1980s and came to U.S. in the 90s.

……

告诫我的不是一个人,而是

两个人、三个人……

先微笑,然后是沉默和迷惘

 

在数着星星的过程中

也许会忘记了自己眉毛底下

两颗最有人性的眸子

它们离我一样遥不可即

 

而我多么疲惫,多么恍惚

就像白昼一个未结疤的

伤口,有着腐败的肉和新鲜

的血,无人用嘴吮吸

 

手指,手指在跳动,仿佛

弹着一根并不存在的琴弦

我的诗啊,请埋进浓重的黑暗

不要为谁而唱,也不要为我

 

你只需叹息,像一场梦

你只需存在,哪怕被毁灭

这一切已经足够幸福了

就不要再追求什么不朽

 

—— 麦芒,1990年4月1日,《今夜的火花今夜就会熄灭》

 

English Translation by Mai Mang


Not just one person warned me
But two, three…
First smiling, then silent and lost
 
In the process of counting stars
Perhaps will forget beneath one’s own eyebrows
Two most human pupils
They are as far and unapproachable as the stars

And how fatigued, how unfocused am I
Just like an unhealed wound
Of the day, having rotten flesh and fresh
Blood, no one would suck it by mouth


Fingers, fingers are jumping
As if plucking a non-existent string
Oh my poetry, please bury yourself into the thick darkness
Don’t sing for anyone, not even for me

You only need to sigh, like a dream
You only need to exist, even if perish
All this would already be enough to be happy
Then please pursue no more so-called immortality

(Tonight's Sparks Will Die Out Tonight, by Mai Mang, April 1, 1990)

A faculty at the Connecticut College now, Mai Mang, a middle-aged man with long hair in a style surprisingly similar to mine, had to drive to a station in Connecticut to catch a Metro-North train, and switch to a New York subway to get to China Institute in order to give this lecture to a dozen participants (and who knows how they got there on a Saturday afternoon!).

My story of getting to China Institute was a typical New York subway story, that is, a frustrating one. I was planning to take the  #7 train from Queens into Manhattan after having lunch with a friend. The lunch was pleasant, which made me stay longer than I probably should. Only after swiping into the station, I found out the Manhattan direction platform was blocked (obviously no train went to Manhattan from that station). I could either take #7 to the next station OPPOSITE direction of Manhattan and switch back, or…… there were really no other options without alternative subway lines around. Instead, I stood around the corner of Sunny Side and Bliss Street for 20 minutes waiting for an Uber, which somehow didn’t show up and yet charged me $5 cancellation fee, and finally got myself into a green cab to 59th and Lexington Ave., only to get stuck in the traffic on Queens Borough Bridge. After getting off, I submerged to #4 train, the express line (and hence the most time-saving to get to China Institute on a NORMAL day), which, didn’t fail to disappoint me this time by only running to 42nd Street. It was only the beginning of a chain of switching trains underground from #4 to #6 (a local line taking twice as much time to get downtown) then to R, which finally went to Rector Street, a station closest to my office. Like most (if not all) New Yorkers, I particularly hate the walk from #6 to R at Canal Street. The connecting tunnels are as filthy as others and exceptionally long. Among all the semi-relaxing locals going out on weekends and confusing tourists who typically move slowly even when trains are running smoothly, I knew I appeared to be uncharacteristically impatient for a Saturday. Well, who cares?

I lost track of time. The mission of the day seemed not about the poetry seminar anymore, but to overcome all the barriers in the subway system between Queens and downtown Manhattan.

And of course, it was a rainy and windy Saturday. After an oddly warm and beautiful week, New York finally felt like late fall on this VERY Saturday, with falling yellow leaves, dreary rains, and almost everyone in black, depressing.

Thirty-minutes before the two-hour poetry seminar ended, I finally walked into China Institute. I dropped my two bags (did I mention that I was carrying two big bags all this time?) in my office, changed my flats to high heels, and stepped quietly into the library with beautiful traditional yet sleek Chinese design and walls of books (some from over 100 years ago) surrounding Mai Mang and the audience.

啊,亲爱的,让我们

再看看外面的世界吧

看看傍晚时分的烟酒店

雨水打湿的街道,车辆和情人

再看看起风的时候,城市多么荒凉

没有果实的树,又多么孤单

你就会感到: 我们应当在一起

我和你在一起的时间

就是家庭的时间

你就会停止在玻璃窗上写字

再不沉默,再不犹豫

也再不看我,就扑回我的怀中……

—— 多多,1973 - 1980, 《感情的时间》

Translation by Gregory Lee:

Oh my love, let's

look once again at the world outside the window

look at the wine and tobacco shop as night draws in

the street wet with rain, the traffic and lovers

look once again as the wind gets up, the town is so

desolate

fruitless trees, and how alone

you can just feel: we are meant to be together

our time together

is a homely time

you can stop and write (or "stop writing"? - by Shenzhan) words on the window pane

never again silent, never again hesitant

and never again looking at me, just throwing your arms

around me (or "throwing into my arms"? -- Shenzhan)...

Duoduo, born in 1951 and considered to be one of the most important contemporary poets in China's poets' circle, was the topic of the seminar.  When I walked in, Mai Mang was reading this poem in Chinese (and it was an amazing performance). An audience followed to read its translation in English. Was Duoduo talking about ONLY Beijing? The corner deli for cigarettes and drinks; the streets in the rain with cars and lovers (are they walking down the street holding hands? with an umbrella? Or riding a second-hand bike in yellow rain ponchos? ); the trees with leaves falling in October and soon to become bare branches……all were so charmingly familiar to me not only because of my 7-year life in Beijing prior to New York, but its surprising  resonance to the life in New York, even a hectic one I just had.

Did Duoduo ever live in New York? If yes, there must have been at least one day like mine he would have gone through. How would it appear in his poem? What would be included? The eyes and faces of confusing passengers packed on the platform? The headlight of the R train finally inching into the Canal Street Station after a long wait? The mumbles from the radio in the train announcing yet another route change “due to planned construction”? The filthy tunnel filled with bright white light that hurts eyes and gives headache?

There is really a poem in everything. My favorite Chinese writer, Wang Xiaobo, referring to Nietzsche, once wrote,

“一个人只有今生今世是不够的,他还应当有诗意的世界。” (It’s not enough for one to just have this life and this world. One shall own a poetic world.” - translated by Shenzhan)

你已经迟了

久等的地铁缓缓驶进站台

好像在嘲讽

——你忍气吞声

迫不及待地

扑进张开的门

—— 廖申展,10/2016, 《诗与纽约地铁》

BTW: next seminar by Mai Mang will be about Wang Xiaobo.

(Thanks to Mai Mang to provide poems and translations on Duo Duo and Mai Mang.)

10/23/16

60 Beans, Astoria, New York