Worthy Moments: A Love Affair in the Pandemic

Worthy Moments: A Love Affair in the Pandemic

New York, December 2021

photo credit: Shenzhan Liao

Socrates Sculpture Park, Astoria, New York, December 22, 2021

photo credit: Shenzhan Liao

Shenzhan/申展


So, about love, where to begin?

Perhaps in the year 2022, I could begin with the pandemic that dislocated the world. I met – let me name him “J” – right before the pandemic. I sat next to J during a professional conference. Feeling his presence, I noticed my self-consciousness grew when I had to take crackers out of my snack bag in the middle of someone's speech as if he was watching. We exchanged WeChat accounts before the conference ended.

No one knew at the time that covid would make an entrance to the U.S. but that was history. By mid-March, New York City, where I live, was shut down. So was San Francisco, where J lives.

One day after the shutdown, J reached out to me on WeChat. We exchanged text messages like teenagers for over one hour. It never happened to me before. We later went on Zoom for morning coffees and evening drinks. Since everything was virtual for a while, the distance between NY and SF effectively dissolved: the distance with J felt the same as my next-door neighbor C.

For me, many things happened between 2020 and 2022. In short, I contracted COVID in early 2020, before the vaccine was out; I made my way back to China as my mom’s cancer progressed; I mourned my mom’s death in July 2021 after I returned to New York; I started dating a guy I met on one of the dating apps for the first time in a few years…things might not take place in that exact order. Covid memory. You know.

Rootless and aimless. Those words come to my mind when I think of the months after July 2021. Like many people, I felt life was turned upside-down by the pandemic, and I was devastated by my mom’s death. I could come up with theories that she is still connected to me, but her warm loving heart is no longer beating – and part of me has literally gone. I tear up every time with this thought. Given the chaos in the world, I seriously question every pre-existing order. J and I stayed in touch this whole time. We zoomed and talked about life, his divorce, my mom’s death, plants on my balcony, the sunset seen from his…… There was something special about the way I felt about J.

That special feeling materialized (at least for me) when I visited SF in December 2021. Sitting on his couch in SF, we were chatting and drinking coffee, just like when we were on Zoom, except for in 3D version. One night, J abruptly dropped the conversation, tensed up a bit, and said,

“I can’t carry on the conversation anymore.” He paused as if to find the right words to say next, “not because I ran out of things to say, but because I really want to kiss you.” He was sitting upright in the corner of the couch, with arms around his folding knees.

Time felt still. All my hair stood up for a second. And I heard myself saying,

“Do you want to try?”

“Yes.”

And that was the beginning of the short-lived love affair between me and J. It was short-lived because, by February 8, it effectively ended. Is it too short hence trivial to keep a writing account? Our lives are an accumulation of millions of living moments. Who’s to say one moment is less important than the other? In the end, the joy, sweetness, frustration, wondering, and sadness……all make the human experience worthy of living. To love is to have the courage to embrace all of it. If it is worthy of a moment, it is worthy of memory. As mortal beings, we will always lose if we compete against time and space. We only win when we are in the moment.

In the midst of the short-lived love affair, I drew down a few notes of those moments. One evening in March 2022, they all sounded like eulogies to me while I sat in my studio alone, pondering,

"Who shall I open my heart to next?"

----

December 25, 2021: Christmas Day

It was raining in New York on Christmas Day. I went out jogging in the drizzling cold rain in Astoria. Very few people were in the street. The sky was gloomy. Yet something is different.

I told J that I learned a new word today.

“What’s the word?” He asked.

“Cauldron.”

Cauldron as in the last line of Sylvia Plath’s “Ariel”,

“The cauldron of morning.”

In the dim light of this morning on a rainy day, my thoughts were all about J: how his fingers and tongue sweetly touched all over my skin in the past three days, evenings, and mornings; how he entered me, gently and deeply; how he held me tightly while I was moaning and sweating in his strong arms, tattooed with 42 different versions of “happiness” in Chinese characters; how the connection between our bodies felt so natural, so right, yet so fresh.

Google says that a cauldron is “a large metal pot with a lid and handle, used for cooking over an open fire.”

“You are my open fire.” I text J while having a double espresso in my kitchen, where two days ago, J, with peppered hair and kind brown eyes, was sitting just across from me, as I started a topic on the impossibility of describing reality.

“Now is the right time to exercise your brain after we exhausted our bodies?” his smile radiated from across the counter.

Ah, the morning time that makes WeChat text messages so terribly inadequate!

***

I spent the entire morning writing and making a New Year card for J. Last year I got a stack of blank cards that I could use to make holiday cards with my drawings or handwriting. I had only made a few for close.

I took time to make this card for J. We took some nice pictures during J’s three-day visit to New York before Christmas. For this card, I instantly think of the igloo we came across at the South Sea Port in lower Manhattan, right next to the East River.

It was past 4 p.m. and started getting dark and cold. I finished a farewell work Zoom call for a colleague. Omicron was sweeping through the city. Only after a few weeks of returning to the office, we went back to work fully remotely. We couldn’t have an in-person party for the colleague, who had worked for the institute for over 40 years. It was a true miracle J even showed up in New York the day before.

After I finished the Zoom call, we headed toward the Citibike station next to the Wall Street ferry to get a bike. A tribe of cute igloos covered with lights outside of a restaurant caught our eyes. Because of COVID, many restaurants have set up little sheds made of clear plastic covers with single table seating inside, only for one party of up to 4 people. It was still early for dinner so we didn’t have any trouble getting one just for a drink, facing the water.

We ordered a half bottle of Cabernet. With a small heater, the igloo was quite comfortable. Not long after, the lights covering the top of the igloo were all lit up, transforming the igloos literally into a fairyland. We sat there next to each other, hands held, chatting and drinking. I completely forgot what we talked about.

On the morning of Christmas Day, I drew a small igloo on the inner right side of the card, with a triangle roof covered with lights. Its plastic cover was shimmering with reflections of the lights from other igloos. I also drew the deep blue water and a few buildings on the other side of Brooklyn. On the front cover, I painted a web of golden dots, connected by silver thin lines, exactly like the lights covering the roof of the igloo. Inside the card, I wrote how I would remember the joy and fun J brought to me, and how kind and generous he was.

Then he was gone in the early morning of December 24. He had to catch the last flight on Christmas Eve back to SF to spend the holiday with his daughter as planned. His trip to NY was rather spontaneous, entirely triggered by my trip to SF. Omicron was rampaging. Just before he left for NY, I was exposed to a colleague who tested positive and had to get tested myself. J could have contracted on the way to NY, or the flights could have been canceled. Many things could have happened to prevent his visit to NY not happening. But he showed up at the corner of 42nd Street and 7th Avenue as I told him, and we spent 3 days together like a dream. We had to sleep in a slowly deflating air bed on the floor of my new studio, still yet to be fully furnished. But it didn’t bother us at all. For a long time in my life, I felt like I was a kid again, discovering the joy of a romantic connection with another human being, without doubts, baggage, or thinking of the future. Just being present, walking in the streets of SoHo, flipping through the books in the Housing Works bookstore, riding a bike along the Hudson River to Little Island, and taking time lying in bed in the morning, not in a rush to go anywhere, or do anything.

***

On Christmas Day, I couldn’t get my mind off J. It was bittersweet - I would rather have him next to me, instead of having just the memories of him, or WeChat messages – and I don’t know what this would lead to. But largely I am just glad that I feel this way about another person again. For a long time, I guess I was afraid of opening my heart, knowing how much love could hurt. But I truly feel this time it is different. It is so rare and precious to have this feeling at this point in my life.

In the afternoon I biked to Ditmars to drop off a tin of ginger lemon tea for my friend C and a bag of treats for his cat, Linus. C got the flu and tested negative for covid, but still canceled his holiday trip to his parents in Georgia. I got some coffee from Parrot, my local coffee shop for the past 10 years on Ditmars. By the time I thought about getting a bottle of wine for the evening, I discovered even the nice Chinese couple next to my building closed the wineshop early for Christmas Day!

----

January 1, 2022: New Year’s Day

I spent the first 2 hours of the year 2022 with J on Zoom, trying to define the state of our relationship: Now that we both feel unbelievably connected to each other, then what? I am in NY; he lives in SF. The distance of almost 3,000 miles and the 3-hour time difference seems a bit daunting. Yet the longing for each other is so strong! I can’t stop thinking of him. Neither could he shake off me in the middle of celebrating holidays with his family and friends. A few days ago, as soon as I knew I would be fully working from home again, I suggested I could WFH in SF. J didn’t respond immediately. I knew my suggestion was rather impulsive and not sure it was a good idea either.

As days went by, something started to bother me: if we really really want to be next to each other physically, why keep it from happening if there is a chance?

Eventually, I had to raise it with J as we toasted for the New Year, which led to a 2-hour exercise to sort out our current status.

“I think I am falling in love with you,” J said, at one point.

I almost panicked and wasn’t sure how to respond for a second. I felt the same: I am uncontrollably falling for J, which is a wonderful feeling, though the distance and uncertainty bring up some bitterness already. How exactly to respond?

“Me too.” sounds too casual.

“Thank you” is terrible. He didn’t just hand me a drink or open the door for me.

Or “I am falling in love with you too”, maybe more adequate but doesn’t sound original.

After a second, I said,

“We are on the same page on that.”

J laughed. This could be heard in a board meeting.

Now as I am reflecting on it at the end of the day, I want to write to J and re-respond, but the moment has gone.

***

The morning started late for me on the first day of 2022. When I finally got on my bike and out to the city, it was already noon.

It was raining like autumn. At 53 F, the temperature was high for winter in NY. I wasn’t sure what exactly my destination was. I just got on the bike lane on Crescent Street, heading toward the Queensboro Bridge and riding over to Manhattan. There were almost no other bikes around. The air was fresh and cool; the sky was gloomy; and I was as light as a bird.

At some point, I decided to go to a ramen noodle restaurant on 55th Street for lunch. It’s a tiny Japanese place almost halfway in the basement but very cozy and serves good ramen. It doesn’t offer outdoor seating like many restaurants in NY. By the time I got there, there were already 2 tables taken. I was seated comfortably at a table for 2 in the middle of the room. There are 378,516 new COVID cases daily in the U.S., reported the day before, a 201% increase from the previous day. I watched people filing into this place for good ramen noodles indoors. There are still plenty of people like me and the rest of the customers in this tiny Japanese noodle shop.

I had COVID-19 in April 2020, when the fear of death caused by COVID-19 was the greatest. The thought of dying came across my mind the night when I felt sick and was lying in bed, but I managed to subdue it – I wouldn’t die from this because I couldn’t bear the thought of telling my mom with cancer that her only daughter was dying thousands of miles away of covid. I had to fight this over and win. And I did. I didn’t know for sure that I had covid until two months later I was able to get an antibody test. I never told Mom I had COVID and recovered from it.

I have since had this mentality that I have got a pass on this test of life and death. I believe the best way for me to deal with COVID is to keep going out, and get exposed, which would help my immune system to continue evolving with the ever-mutating virus. At least it is working so far for me, and that is how I look at it. Thus, COVID doesn’t keep me from going to restaurants, hanging out with friends (if they dare), or jumping on a plane to SF.

The rain was drizzling. The gloomy sky reminded me of April 2020, when I finally biked to the city for the first time in 5 weeks as soon as I recovered from COVID-19. I decided to bike to the Bethesda Fountain in Central Park like many times I did in 2020. It is a place of reference to remind me the city is still there, with the winged angel standing there like forever, looking down upon people walking at her feet. The fountain was dried up for the winter but there were still groups of people there walking around, taking photos - even during the darkest days of the shutdown, there were always people there, walking, exploring NYC, fearless. I took a photo with my phone and sent it to J.

My next stop was the Strawberry Field, a memorial place for John Lennon. He was shot to death only a few blocks away in front of his apartment building in the 1980s. I always made a point to go there as part of my pandemic bike ride around the city. A circle of lovely yellow roses was placed around the word “IMAGINE” in the center of the mosaic circle made of stones from Naples, Italy. The flowers were still fresh, apparently placed not very long ago.

Strawberry Field, Central Park, New York, December 2021

photo credit: Shenzhan Liao

From Central Park, I took the bike lane on Broadway downtown to Times Square, which was shockingly crowded. 42nd Street was madly packed with people roaming around, surrounded by all sorts of giant electronic billboards. Street panhandlers were all there: a giant panda, all sorts of superheroes, the famous naked cowboy, etc. Tourists rushed to them for pictures. The tremendous energy was just explosive. Ah, New York City!

I walked my bike through the crowd and didn’t stay long. It’s an ocean of people’s energy on steroids because it’s Times Square, still the center of the world even during Omicron. With the gloomy sky, the drizzling rain, and people in dark winter outfits, I kept thinking of “Blade Runner”, where the city is always raining and dark. Gothic.

Times Square, New York, January 1, 2022

photo credit: Shenzhan Liao

Before I turned back, I stopped by the 42nd New York Public Library. The library was closed but people were taking pictures on its grand steps as always. The two giant lions, wearing Christmas wreaths, sit in front of the steps facing 5th Avenue. I just love to look at their faces, so noble and so indifferent to the traffic, omicron, and me.

New York Public Library, January 1, 2022

photo credit: Shenzhan Liao

The first day of 2022, I was roaming around NYC by myself like the first day of last year. But there’s J out there, far away, and I felt less alone.

----

January 17, 2022: A physical record

This is how missing J feels to me physically.

There is a touch of tension in my body, a tender tightness in the chest as if there is pressure from inside. I am not entirely happy, nor sad, but feeling at the edge of liveliness. And I said to myself,

“Is this how my body tells me how much I miss J?”

I am sitting in my kitchen having the first coffee of the day. It’s deep in winter in NYC and the temperature is above zero. It’s raining outside, which is unusual for New York in January. Typically, it would be cold, icy snowy or ugly and slushy in the street.

I am amazed how I have never felt like this before, not even years ago when I first fell in love with K when I was a young college student. I was happy, light, and carefree back then. And I was able to see K every day on campus, where we lived, studied, hung out with friends, and explored each other’s bodies in dark garden corners like many young love birds in college did at the time.

J and I are now literally almost 3,000 miles apart. He is probably just waking up. It will be another 5 weeks before I can see him again in person, holding his hands, pressing my fingers into the “happiness” tattooed on his arm, and feeling him entering me gently, and deeply in the dim light of early morning hours. It is like I am taken over by a force that is completely out of my control, and I am willing to surrender.

In the morning, I boil an egg, make saffron tea, and listen to classical music…everything I keep doing now is almost like a fading background, a distraction from my longing for J.

Before I met J I thought I was incapable of feeling love again. Fearing the hurt coming along almost inevitably with love, I have kept myself from feeling it. Now, I am sitting here, missing him, and letting the happiness of love settle in me. It is such an intimate moment between me and my feelings. It is almost like whether J is physically here or not is no longer relevant.

The question is, when will the pain start entering the scene?

----

February 13, 2022: the Aftermath

Just as surprising how fast and hard J and I fell for each other, I am now writing about the aftermath.

Yesterday I opened my mailbox in the lobby after forgetting to check for a week. There was a card from J. The cover of the envelope had my name in Chinese written by him, next to the English letters. The card reads “You Are My Person”. Inside the card, there is a message,

“And I want to be your person too.

With (a hand-drawn heart) from J”

A character made up by J with “融” (melt) on the top and a “心”(heart)was drawn at the bottom. It is a character known only to us: I am quite a nerd on Chinese etymology. One day at work J sent me a text message with a heart half melted in blood.

"A bloody heart?!” I cried.

"A melting heart! You are unbelievable (a face covered by a palm)!” He replied.

The card was sent on January 31. Yet, J on February 13 is no longer the J on January 31.

Neither was I.

***

On February 8, I got an email from J.

Plainly and straightforwardly as a nice and effective executive delivering bad news to a staff member, he wrote that he had concerns about the long distance facing us and wanted to talk about it. The email came just the day before our scheduled regular weekly catch-up Zoom. I wasn’t completely surprised. For two weeks before the email, J had few text messages, often with even fewer words. He had his reasons, or so I tended to believe— first he had to focus on a family matter, and then he got COVID. For a week I felt quite disconnected, anxious, even sad, for this sudden change of state between us. I knew there were more reasons than his daughter and COVID-19 for his abrupt drop in communication. My heart made a point to me already. It bloody hurt.

We quickly arranged Zoom that evening. All things considered, J on February 8 didn’t want to be “my person”, which effectively ended this short-lived love affair. I was carrying the conversation almost fine until he admitted that he had been ambivalent from the beginning.

“What does it mean, the word ‘ambivalent’?” I asked.

“It’s probably only the second word you don’t know.” J said (and internally I was like, IS THIS THE FUCKING MOMENT ENLARGING MY ENGLISH VOCABULARY? ), “It means uncommitted, hesitant…”

With that, I suddenly felt how silly, and blind, I have been all this time: subjected to the uncontrollable state of feeling love and loved, living in the illusion I created. It finally was made clear that the illusion was also for me only. I broke into tears, hurt, and embarrassed.

J looked sad when I cried. But I no longer trust what I saw.

I don’t remember what we conversed after that moment. But I remember he said in the end,

“Talk again.”

“We will see.” Those were my last words.

How fast can one change one’s heart? Was the heart there to begin with? What about the feelings, so real and so strong just a few days ago? Does feeling strongly about someone mean anything? Do words mean anything anymore? I am so lost.

I slept relatively well that night. I was exhausted for the past few sleepless nights from the frustration of J’s withdrawal and the ambivalence I felt. That night felt at least settled.

***

It was warm like spring yesterday. I put down the “You Are My Person” card and went jogging. Life came back like before I met J. And I am glad that I have a life that I am happy to return to. Under the well-managed surface, I know for a while it will be different. I would walk and jog and bike and talk to others like usual but there would be something raw and empty and wounded there, for weeks, or maybe months. But I will be fine in the end. I am indeed strong. I have no other choice but to be strong.

In the evening I read “Nothing Personal” by James Baldwin, on love in long distance,

“It is necessary, while in darkness, to know that there is a light somewhere, to know that in oneself, waiting to be found, there is light. What the light reveals is danger, and what it demands is faith.”

I am in the darkness, yet I know the light doesn’t exist outside. It’s in me. On this journey, to love is to put myself out in danger, – even for someone as strong as me, it hurts terribly. But I have to have faith in myself, that there is light in me, that it will be found, that it will not destroy me, that I shall not stop searching.

----

March 11, 2022: A Eulogy

I fell in love with water this evening.

So soft and warm…I soaked myself in a bath this Friday evening, candles flickering in the corner, sea salt dissolved quietly in the small hot tub, a smell of lavender gently floating in the steamy air…I dipped my toes in the water, then my feet, tights, belly, arms, shoulder, neck, ears……until only my nose was above the water.

AHHHHH…FEEL IT. JUST FEEL IT. All my cells were screaming. It’s so incredible. How come you didn’t think of this before? I asked myself. Closed in your candle-lit bathroom, soaking into the warm water in the music you like (Multitude by Stromae), a glass of wine (Cabernet Sauvignon, DECOY 2019) on the side, the outside world disappears as the water silently dissolves all your pain. You let go of every cell of your body, allowing yourself to feel how gently the water carries your weight, floats your limbs, and hugs your skin, fingers, and arms. As you slowly sink your ears into the water, you feel the electric sensation traveling from head to toe, a sensation you’ve never noticed, and you hear your heartbeat under the water, steady, muffled, and comforting as if you encounter a long-lost old friend.

At one point my cat Xiaomi made an entrance, and walked away, indifferent to my naked body in the water.

I hear the water whispers,

“Others may say you are strong and walk away. I will carry you.”

----

Isn’t love what we are here for in this very troubled world, regardless of how short-lived it is? In the moment of love, we transcend our very limited human life with the liveliness that is only fleeting, break free from time and space, and feel our existence, so much so that we don’t even ask what the meaning of life is at that very moment.

I continue walking in the darkness, fearfully and fearlessly at the same time.

Astoria, New York

11:04 PM, March 13, 2022

A Thank-You Note, and others

Shenzhan/申展

A Thank-You Note

Simple love:

The longing for one more day.


Fully here and fully alive

Simply love

Every moment I have.

Thank you.


Astoria, New York

12/8/2021

The Next Best Thing

If I can’t be next to you now,

The memory of you

Is the next best thing.

Keep me! Keep me!

The sweet and tender moments chirp

Like birds,

Disappearing into the sky.

Astoria, New York

In the morning hours of December 12, 2021

Morning Hours

I stay in bed

In the dim light of morning hours

To be with the memory of you

In between dream and reality.

Astoria, New York

December 26, 2021

This Moment For You

Are you happy to know

Right now

3,000 miles away

Someone on earth

Feels this strongly about you

Thinking of you as a

Kind

Generous

and

Attractive

Human being?

My thoughts may change

My feelings too.

But I want you

To own this moment

- this moment

I want you

to be happy

Like the other 42 happiness

On your left arm.

Astoria, New York

December 27, 2021

Another Day Like Today

Shenzhan 申展

Beautiful like today 

Blue sky so crystal clear

White clouds so pure

and the sun so bright and warm

gently hugging every inch of face…

This perfect early winter day

Air filled with ripe fruits, golden leaves

mature and melancholy

I am so sad that 

Mom would not have another day like today that

I would not have another day with Mom like today.

Just cry

on the N train 

going down the tunnel to Manhattan

to have lunch with a friend.

11/19/2021


My New York Shoebox (1)

September 1, 2021 turned out to be a damaging day because of hurricane Ida for many in NY and NJ. For some it was even deadly : there are over 40 reported deaths across several states in the Northeast. 

Ironically, it was also the happiest day for me earlier in the day: after 6 excruciating months of waiting, I finally closed my studio in Astoria, Queens. It is literally a shoebox, a studio with a square footage fewer than 500 sq., and the closing happened to be on the wettest day of 2021 in NY so far. But I was exhilarated with joy and relief!

Buying an apartment  -- my first one in New York --  is not a small deal, especially the entire process took place as we have been deep in the covid, and I have been back and forth between U.S. and China for my Mom, who was seriously ill and eventually passed away a couple of months ago. But on Sep. 1, 2021, everything seemed to lined up for me: attorneys from all sides, that is, including my attorney Nataly, the seller’s attorney Gus, the bank’s attorney, the co-op’s attorney, and the pay-off attorney…...anyway, there were a lot of people in the room, in addition to me, the seller, a mid-aged tall white guy with a lean figure and long face (and forgot to give me the keys to the mailbox and the laundry room — thank you, Andrew!), and Peter, the seller’s realtor, kindly gave me a ride back to Astoria after closing, which turned out to be really fun, including lunch at an Italian restaurant! I only remember signing a lot of paper, while Nataly explained to me in plain language so that I could understand what it was about. Essentially it worked like this: 

Nataly: Sign here. This 40-page file is the closing disclosure that basically outlines everything. You can simply sign here (she pointed at one spot on the top sheet) to indicate that you have seen the document. 

Me: Yeah...I did SEE the document. It is sitting right in front of me. But who gets to read 40 pages now! 

Nataly: It’s standard so just sign. 

And I signed. 

Given the fact that the closing was delayed by the bank for over 2 months (for whatever reason the bank threw at me, like, they were backed up because too many people were buying and selling and refinancing due to the exceptionally low interest rate), the closing, typically could take 2 hours or more, went

exceptionally smooth. Within 2 hours, after signing profusely on documents that I only got to see the title and the blank where I shall sign, we were done! I held the stock -- a certificate on paper stock with a blue wide edge saying I am the stockholder of XXX shares of the co-op, which equals the share of the studio in the building -- for a few seconds so Nataly could take a photo of me holding it and gave it to Lisa, the bank’s attorney. “ I guess you will see this piece of paper in 30 years if not earlier!” Lisa was a kind woman in her early 50s with a sense of humor.

Before the heavy rain started later in the afternoon that day, I made my way back to Astoria, went to the studio to try out the keys, and biked back to my current Steinway apartment. The day was a redemption for all the wait (which doubled the typical waiting period for buying a co-op in NYC) and the anxiety that I might not get the apartment AND lose my deposit. 

I am sure my mom would have loved to see this day. And perhaps she does see from Heaven!

I prayed the night before for her blessing. And it worked!

Now I can officially say I own my shoebox in New York!

A walk through of my shoebox: https://youtu.be/C5RasxaMXEE

Astoria, New York

September 1, 2021

July 8, 2021: The First Day of Being an Orphan

July 8, 2021: The First Day of Being an Orphan

By Shenzhan/申展

It may sound terrible but at some point most of us will become orphans. The alternative is worse: your parent(s) will have to bear the loss of their own child. 

The first day of being an orphan for me started on July 8, 2021 in New York when my mother passed away after a long battle with multiple myeloma ( my father died of heart attack years ago when I was in college).

As usual I woke up around 6 am, and found a Wechat message left by my cousin at 6:43 am, asking me if I was up. I was, but not ready to speak yet.  

It was hot these days in New York. So instead of sleeping in bed, I slept on a leather rug on the carpeted floor right underneath the ceiling fan last night. I fell fast into a sleep without dreams uninterruptedly. Like all my families who passed away, mom didn’t come into my dream, which I hoped she would have. But again, she might have already said everything she felt she needed to say. And now she is gone without any regret, nor things undone. 

On the desk was a letter I wrote to her yesterday, at around 6 pm, after I finally got home from office, where I, in the middle of a zoom meeting, got the news of her passing texted to me by my cousin at her bedside. I found myself started writing a letter to her like what I have been doing in the past two months, with a small brush pen. 

“妈妈,见字如面.”

I remember I started to cry profusely after these characters. It hit me that there will be no “mom” anymore to see these characters and hold the feelings and memories of me as her daughter. I believe matters composing her, still exist and will continue to be around. But I don’t believe there will be a “soul” that still holds the consciousness of her as a person who was my mom, who loved me and I love so much, who has lived a life of 72 years with all the experiences and memories that were only known to her as a “self”. But still, it’s a comfort for me to know that her particles, like mine, will continue to stay in this universe, to be part of something else eventually. 

I watered the tomatoes and peppers on the balcony, fed Xiaomi, and biked to Astoria Park for my routine morning exercise. I wore a black and white sports outfit. Only I, in this entire world, knew that I am doing this to mourn my mom. If souls were existing, my mom’s soul would know it too. Her soul would be coming more freely and easily and staying close to me, still lovingly, like she always was until the very last moment. 

On the way back from the park, I stopped by O.K. Café for a latte and a croissant. Sitting at a table in the street next to the café, I watched the world going by as usual: a significant number of people were walking in the street without masks now; traffic was not too bad but the street started to feel busy; restaurants still kept their outdoor seats in the middle of the street, taking up the parallel parking slots pre-pandemically for cars only, like a lifetime ago. 

I called my cousin in Holland after coming back to my apartment. From a family with few words, we don’t speak often, while do care about each other. But this time we spoke for about 80 minutes. He is expecting a second son, which is fantastic!

My day feels kind of empty now. I am taking the day, and tomorrow off, to process the fact that now I am officially an orphan. I imagine if I were in China, I would be busy making arrangements with the funeral house, the cremation place, and perhaps a memorial ceremony where families and friends would gather. I would be handling the logistics and invitations, etc. But since I am thousands of miles away from China and can’t make plans to go home immediately -- there is still a 3-week quarantine in place for anyone entering China from another country-- I am just staying in my Astoria apartment, being with myself and my own feelings. People who know my mom are mostly in China, probably in sound sleep now. After many years living away from mom, there is very little in my daily life reminding me of her -- she did help me move into this very apartment when she visited me in 2011: the bed I am sleeping in was put together by her and my stepfather; the small kitchen side table was bought by her — and she returned to the store to exchange some parts successfully even not speaking a single sentence of English; she cooked in my kitchen very spicy Sichuan food for my friends…Once the initial reactions pass, I suspect I will be quick to go about life quite normally. The profound sense of loss would have to come later, at moments that I can’t predict now. 

MJ also called. He lost his mother a year and half ago, right before the pandemic, to pancreas cancer. A miserable time for her, and him too. We spoke for a while on rather trivial things: office policy for vaccination; empty buildings and plazas in downtown NY; a pigeon walking in determination towards him while he’s on the phone with me. It was nice of him to call me. He called me after my first cat Chino died too. I was too upset about Chino’s sudden passing to pick up that call.

My sweet neighbor, Chip, sent a bouquet of sunflowers. “Just left something on the table that I hope can brighten your day a little.” He texted. That was so sweet of him. I can’t imagine being able to manage these months without him, in fact. He was taking care of Xiaomi when I was away for 3 months to be with my mom from February to May; he got acetaminophen for me when I was fighting covid19 at home with unusual headaches last April; he climbed out his window to toast a drink with me on his fire escapes during the hard months when New York was completely locked down; now the sunflowers…I had planned to go on a whale watching trip this Sunday with him. But now I rather stay in to make sure I have done sufficient in processing. Mom will be cremated Saturday evening (EST), and I can’t predict whether I will be in an emotionally stable state by Sunday. Sometimes it’s good, and necessary to be alone. I hope he finds a good friend who can go with him.

Later in the afternoon, I started digging into some old photos of mom and me and family members after I came to U.S.: photos of us when they were visiting Shanghai(上海) in the summer of 2009; when they visited me in NY and the three of us went on a road trip driving to New Port, Maine and Boston in 2011; when mom and I escaped to a small fishing village in Sanya (三亚)in 2015; when I was back in my hometown every winter; when we visited San Xing Dui (三星堆)museum near Chengdu (成都)...She was there, all laughing, posing for the picture, having fun exploring all these places...she had such a kind face! I was happy to see her in those photos and walking through pieces of her life again. There were moments that were difficult, like now. But there were moments she lived a life she loved. It was not invalid. 

Sometime in the afternoon, it started raining hard, reminding me of her passing-- is the heaven crying for her? For a while, every time when it rained, I thought something bad was happening to her and the heaven was weeping for her. The sentiment felt right. 

Xiaomi has been very quiet today. She is getting old and quieter, spending more time lying around the apartment. 

Towards the end of the day before it got dark, the rain stopped. I decided to go out and get some fresh air, groceries, and wine. As I was walking in the familiar streets, I was oddly very calm, peaceful, and almost content, feeling I was not alone, as if mom was around me, in the fresh air after the heavy rain. 

Is it CRAZY that I am not feeling abandoned, nor alone, but even more loved, as if mom could be with me anytime now that she is free from her physical body? But it feels terribly good, even addictive! I shared this with Tuzi, my best friend since middle school, on my last call of the day. Her mother is getting treatment for lung cancer. And we often talk about our interactions and involvements with mothers with grave terminal illness. She was not surprised, “You are her daughter so you carry her life, literally.”

Indeed, just like a message sent my colleague R,

“ …those we love don’t go away, they walk beside us every day. Unseen, unheard, but always near.”

Thank you mom, for your love for me, for giving me this life, for making me appreciate the time I had with you, and the time after. 

Astoria, New York

2021/7/9

Mom, Sanya (三亚), China, 2015

Mom, Sanya (三亚), China, 2015



New York: Not Quite Home, But Hard to Leave

by Shenzhan/申展

On the very last day of January, 2021, I was walking towards Bier and Cheese on Broadway in Astoria, Queens,  one of my favorite places for lunch these days. Like everyone else here, the restaurant built a shed in the street. Completely enclosed, it has sliding doors, open windows with screens for ventilation, heating lamps and twinkle lights. In my book, all signal “safe enough”. 

Like a good citizen, I was walking in the street, wearing a mask and thinking to myself, 

“Isn’t it brilliant that human eyes are made not to get foggy?” 

I was so annoyed that my glasses constantly are fogged by my own masked breath these days. And I was genuinely happy for a few seconds with this thought in mind. 

2021 started with a wave of shocking events, which I do not need to repeat; little promising news on vaccine proceeding; and even less good development between the U.S.-China relations. 

My friends and families in China keep floating the idea for me to leave New York for good. Life in China has been back to normal mostly. There are breakouts of new coronavirus cases here and there, but they are immediately under control by strict contact tracing and quarantines. In my hometown, a small-sized city nestled among the hilly mountains of southwest China, where my parents live, there hasn’t been a single new case for a long time. My mom told me on Wechat, an app like Whatsapp, that she went out with relatives for a hotpot dinner just before the new year. Watching what’s going on in the U.S. through Chinese media, one can only imagine concerns for my safety keep mounting, and a sense of pride in what China has achieved.

 “But I feel I am not done with New York.” I told a good friend in Chengdu recently. Chengdu is actually my favorite city, known for the giant panda, a leisure lifestyle, great Sichuan food, and over 1,500 years of history and culture. I am almost certain I would return to Chengdu.

If I ever decide to do so.

To me, it’s an interesting question about identity, a sense of affiliation and attachment. It is more about my relationship with the city of New York, than simply staying in the U.S., which is not entirely determined by citizenship, where families are, nor career.

Here I am, sitting in the apartment I have resided since 2008 in Astoria, New York. By 10 am on a Saturday of 2021, I have already uploaded my morning running record to Strava, reading 3.05 miles at an average speed of 11 minutes / mile. I spoke with a friend and former college classmate in Macau through Wechat video. I was planning to ride to the city and get a pair of winter cycling shoes (which I did) and perhaps visit The Whitney Museum of American Art for the first time since March (which I didn’t. I ended up biking to Times Square to feel the traffic and watch people in masks!). A typical weekend during the pandemic for me.

Without a doubt, I am a beneficiary of the internationalization: a girl from a small place in southwest China got her footing in a big city like New York. My mother and my stepfather, both retired school teachers, without an advanced degree and never studied abroad, managed to support me along this journey until I became financially independent. When I first came to New York, the biggest concern for me was to secure enough scholarship to cover the hefty tuition for the next school year. I thought I couldn’t stay in New York, and did get on a plane to Beijing the day after the Commencement, only to find myself coming back to the city when the first chance appeared, after one year in China.

In Pretend It’s A City, Fran Lebowitz says, “No one can afford to live in New York City. And yet, eight million people do.” It’s always too expensive, too noisy, too messy, too much. But I find myself still here after twenty years.  However, over the years, I have felt the concept of internationalization being increasingly challenged in the U.S., Europe, and back in China. In March 2020, it was suddenly put to an unprecedented test by the pandemic, a test that is still unfolding and no one knows what “being international” will look like in years, or, even in months. For one thing, the schedules of international flights between the U.S. and China are currently updated on a monthly basis. Approved flights can be abruptly overhauled if new positive coronavirus cases are tested.

Questions from China on why I still stay in the U.S. are rising: from what people may read and watch in China, America appears unsafe with an uncontrollable pandemic, hostile to China with rising discrimination against Chinese in this country. Its political image as the ideal of democracy is tarnished as the world has observed the four years of the Trump Presidency, the chaos of the presidential election, and was definitely shaken by the insurrection on January 6. Its leading economic power, if already threatened by China before the pandemic, now seems further slipping away, with more uncertainties casted by the pandemic that has dragged for too long. The perception may be too simplistic, possibly inaccurate and short sighted, but when I now think of returning to China for a business trip, or a home visit, like I did so often each year in the past decade, I found myself wondering: is it possible that I might be denied re-entry to the U.S.? It happened to many Chinese when the Chinese Exclusion Act was passed in 1882. History taught me.   

Like many Chinese students seeking education and life in the U.S., I came to New York almost two decades ago for a future that was full of excitement, but not without uncertainties and risks. Nothing was promised at the time. Though I was not fleeing China as if it was impossible for me to stay there. I also did not leave China thinking it was a backward country that should look up to the U.S. in every aspect. I was, like any young people with immense curiosity, making the choice to explore the unknown in New York. I guess I was merely leaving my homeland to push the limits of myself, and the world, all made possible by the internationalization. For a long time, New York was, and still is, part of an unfinished experience, so unique to myself and dear to my heart, yet distant in many other ways. It never quite feels home, but also hard to leave.

January 31, 2021

Astoria, New York

A Note on Christmas Day, 2020

A Note on Christmas Day, 2020

申展/Shenzhan

I guess even in 2020, I don’t have much to complain about. 

I just spent the entire Christmas Day at home, not setting a toe out of my building --only once out of my apartment to place a gift box to C, my sweet neighbor, and the person I possibly have seen more than any other human being in person in 2020. Now, at 6 pm, Mozart music was playing on YouTube with a fireplace on screen projecting flames and, hypothetically, warmth in my living room (only the smoke is missing, but who cares? It can be unpleasant anyway); There is a 4-foot tall real tree, which I was fortunate to get before my luck was deprived of the Christmas tree shortage, now standing in my other living room with ridiculous lights and a few ornaments, including a nutcracker soldier, a few colorful glitter balls, a miniature Santa on a ski slide, a shining unicorn, and a ceramic cat holding a fish saying “小米“ on its belly; the named cat, 小米, after watching “from Russian with Love'' on my lap, was now trying to steal a piece of cheese from my snack board, despite the fact that a) it’s Christmas (not that she cares), b) I just fed her and c) I tried to keep her away by waving a napkin persistently (yes, it is a competition on persistence with a cat); I spent the entire day finishing a 9-panel mod podge art project with photos of foods and fruits from Oaxaca in June, 2019; I opened gifts and Christmas cards: a pair of beautiful leather gloves with fox fur from K, and a sweet candle in a fancy white jar from M...the Christmas tree is blinking like crazy, I am completely alone, but feel so complete, and for the first time smile with a thought that I can officially claim I have a boyfriend, i.e., K. How crazy is that after, huh, all these 18 years I am single!!??

Oaxaca in 9 panels, 2019 by Shenzhan, December 25, 2020

Oaxaca in 9 panels, 2019 by Shenzhan, December 25, 2020

Or, if I choose so, I have a lot to complain about: the day started with a terrible storm waking me up  in the middle of the night (very unusual!) with me finding everything on my balcony turned upside down in the morning; global warming--it was almost 60 F (or 15 C) on Christmas Day--I’m seriously worried for our children’s generation even though I am almost certain that I will remain childless throughout the rest of my life; the said boyfriend, K, after making a delicious veal dinner with mushroom and fragrant rice on Dec. 23, with a bottle of 19-year-old cabernet from CA that made both of us sick the next day (DELICIOUS when drinking it though!), disappeared on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day to be with his daughter’s fiancée’s family (BTW, I shall give him credit for staying in line in the afternoon of the 23rd to get all ingredients without completely losing his temper with all the slowly-moving shoppers around in the store, and covid cases are rising...); my mother still has cancer, though not progressing terribly aggressively at this moment and was laughing with me when I shared a screen shot of her messy hair during our video wechating; restaurants in NYC are still only open for outdoor dining--and who would eat outdoor these days, even huddling under a heating lamp??; and I am not currently in China: for the past decade, I have always been in China on Christmas Day, not necessarily celebrating as China is growing increasingly hostile to Western holidays in recent years, but I was with my family --- a full dressed dancing Santa always stood in front the building where my parents live, a small city nestled in the small hills in southwest China, covered with green vegetations in winter. And I wonder if the Santa would still hold his saxophone like every previous year, and swag with the pre-recorded music, even when it’s raining. 

This year I had to invent my Christmas tradition in NYC all from scratch because it’s 2020. Now, everybody knows what “It’s 2020” means. In 3 years, we will have to add anecdotes. People forget, and kids are born every second despite the fact that the pandemic is still spreading uncontrollably. And they tend to have a terrible memory of the first few years right after being born, which I find is utterly unfair: should the first few years in your life be most memorable since everything is so fresh? 

Well, I guess it’s all about choice. And I am just so content right now, on a Christmas Day after working from home for 9 months as covid19 claimed more than 1.75M lives worldwide. One day, when 2020 is over, and I might be spending Christmas Eve with K, I would be happy about what I chose to not complain about this Christmas.

Astoria, New York

12/25/2020

Proof of Living Moments: Kindness

by Shenzhan / 申展


A summary of fragmented thoughts during the week, Proof of Living Moments (PLM) intends to have an account of what comes to my mind when I am reading on the subway, walking in the street or listening to a podcast, or like many people nowadays, just sitting around in my apartment. Thoughts often appear, then disappear into the ocean of unconsciousness, as if they have never existed.

As if that living moment has never existed.

I hope these notes are at least a proof of those living moments.

How to let go what you expect to get, and still be kind? 

I first start thinking of this question when I was reading a book in graduate school, 《上海的金枝玉叶》 (“ Precious Delicate Flowers in Shanghai”) , a biography of a woman from a wealthy family in early 20th Century Shanghai, going through the wars in the 30s and 40s, beginning of the Communist China, social and class movements peaked during the Cultural Revolution from 1966 - 1976, etc. By the time she was 80 years old and living quietly in a small ally in Shanghai, her family wealth was long gone, her husband died in a labor camp, and she herself had the memories of doing all kinds of laborious work unimaginable for a beautiful, delicate, high-class lady in Shanghai in the 30s. With all she went through, amazingly, she was still a kind person.

Impressed in an abstract way, I carry the memory of this book and her story effortlessly for all these years. It came up immediately when I came across Naomi Shihab Nye’s poem on the morning of July 1, 2020. 

In New York City, we are now entering the fourth month of working from home due to COVID-19 and I start to feel a bit frustrated about things between J and me. After a couple of months of close text messages and weekly 3-hour-long zoom calls, it seems we are hitting a wall. I suddenly don’t feel he has the kind of eagerness to talk anymore. I tried to initiate messages, but the response did not feel too encouraging. Did I say anything off putting (like when I mentioned I didn’t have a “real relationship” for 18 years, just dates and short terms)? Or we both increasingly feel hopeless as COVID-19 drags? Or he is just too busy with the school reopening, board meetings, zoom meetings with colleagues and parents, spending time with his families? In the end, it’s hard to keep up with the intensity of expectations for too long. At some point sparkles will start to fade, which is an unfortunate human nature. Also it’s hard to argue there is anything yet between us: we just met in person in February, and were immediately separated due to the pandemic. We haven’t FELT each other physically at all: forget about holding hands or anything beyond that, we haven’t even sitting next to each other in person, testing occasionally brushing against the other person’s finger, or shoulder. What’s worse, we don’t even know how and when THAT would happen!

Usually a frustration will lead to impatience and bitterness, and I will explode at some point and blow everything off. 

And I read Naomi’s poem, “Kindness”.

KINDNESS

Before you know what kindness really is 在你明白善的真谛以前

you must lose things, 你必须有所遗失,

feel the future dissolve in a moment 感受未来在瞬间消逝

like salt in a weakened broth. 就像稀薄的汤里的盐。

What you held in your hand, 你手中所握的,

what you counted and carefully saved, 你所依靠和谨慎保存的,

all this must go so you know 都必须放弃这样你才知道

how desolate the landscape can be 善与善的中间地带

between the regions of kindness. 风景可以多么荒凉。

How you ride and ride 好像你不停地不停地乘车

thinking the bus will never stop, 觉得公车永不停止,

the passengers eating maize and chicken 乘客们啃着玉米和鸡肉

will stare out the window forever. 会永远看着窗外。 

Before you learn the tender gravity of kindness, 在你了解善沉甸甸的柔软以前,

you must travel where the Indian in a white poncho

你必须旅行,碰到穿着白色斗篷的印第安人

lies dead by the side of the road. 毫无生气地陈尸路旁。

You must see how this could be you, 你得明白这可能是你,

how he too was someone 明白他也曾在夜里穿行

who journeyed through the night with plans 有想法

and the simple breath that kept him alive. 还有让他活着的一口气

Before you know kindness as the deepest thing inside, 你懂得善在内心最深处以前

you must know sorrow as the other deepest thing. 也必须明白悲伤深藏在那里。

You must wake up with sorrow. 你得带着悲伤醒来。

You must speak to it till your voice 与之交谈直到你的声音

catches the thread of all sorrows 托起每一根悲伤的线条

and you see the size of the cloth. 然后才明白整张布匹的大小。

Then it is only kindness that makes sense anymore, 这时只有善才有意义,

only kindness that ties your shoes 只有善能让你系上鞋带,

and sends you out into the day to mail letters and purchase bread, 每天出去寄信、买面包,

only kindness that raises its head 只有善抬起头来

from the crowd of the world to say 从芸芸世间说

It is I you have been looking for, 你一直找的是我,

and then goes with you everywhere 然后跟随你到每一个地方

like a shadow or a friend. 就像影子或朋友。
(translation by Shenzhan/申展)

I remember the night J and I were talking about past relationships. J told me about his recent divorce; I shared my first relationship story in graduate school -- and that was when I texted J that I didn’t have any serious relationship afterwards in the past 18 years, which shocked him. As we chatted over text messages, I couldn’t help to be in a deep sorrow: perhaps what surprised him made me feel sorry for myself. Maybe I have been feeling sorry for myself ever since that first relationship ended. I was weeping and texting, for reasons I couldn’t, and still can’t, explain. It’s just painful, and I knew it had nothing to do with J.

But it was not true. There were other relationships, long or short, and I was serious. Or at least I intended to be serious at the beginning. But they all didn’t work out, hence are not counted as “relationships” in my mind. Is it possible that I have never allowed myself pass the very first “real” relationship? I can’t explain why I said what I said to J. I wasn’t trying to lie, but I wasn’t telling the truth either.

Can I still be kind to myself and others if I am not feeling particularly loving or being loved?

As I read the poem, it starts to feel it no longer matters whatever between J and me.

Kindness, "It is I you have been looking for." 

Perhaps the silver lining is, even when one is not capable of loving, one can still be capable of kindness.

Astoria, New York

Revised July 25, 2020

Hear Naomi reading “Kindness” : https://soundcloud.com/onbeing/kindness-by-naomi-shihab-nye

Hear Shenzhan/申展 reading “善“:

LIFE, COVID-19 STYLE: did I just have it?

by Shenzhan/申展

Xiao Mi, April, 2020

Xiao Mi, April, 2020

One night in early April, 2020, I was having a really bad headache, with a stronger-than-usual sense of loneliness after being in bed the entire day, and the day before. Around mid-night I was panicking for a moment that I might have contracted IT. 

IT being COVID-19. 

I am in New York City so contracting the corona virus would hardly be a surprise, especially in the peak weeks. By the time I was having headaches, the entire state had  been on emergency lock-down for over two weeks. I had been working from home for 15 days, living with my cat Xiao Mi within the four walls of an apartment in Queens. With the highest number of patients and death tolls among the five boroughs of New York City, Queens was NOT the kind of place you would want to be at this point if you had a choice. The city was in the thickness of the pandemic. I could hear sirens all day long from my balcony.

Earlier that day, my friend M, who lives in Manhattan and is very kind to check in on me every now and then, sent me a photo of dead bodies piled up and stored in trucks of a hospital as death just overflowed the city capacity. Of course, she could not possibly know my state of health. Only a couple of my colleagues knew since I had to call in for a sick day and everyone was nervous. My boss called me to check if I was ok. I was ok -- just body aches, chill, fatigue, maybe a little fever, “but no coughing, no difficulty breathing. I’m sure it’s just a typical cold, very bad timing.” I added after describing my symptoms and went back to sleep.

When you are living alone, sick with fatigue, and the creature you live with is not the kind to cook or bring you food, feeding yourself happily becomes more or less an issue. While loss of appetite helped the situation, I was soon reminded by my friend H in Beijing, which is a few months ahead of NYC in dealing with the virus, that sufficient protein intake is important to fight against the virus. My intelligence had diminished at the time, so I forgot that protein ALSO, obviously, as one article I read argues, feeds the virus so it’s quite debatable the role protein plays if you are sick with the corona virus. 

Anyway, I was having body aches, chill, headaches, fatigue, and loss of appetite, so was not in a good shape for any kind of debate. Nevertheless, I kept debating in my own head what went wrong. I had worked from home fine for two weeks before I got sick. So logically, nothing, not even the MTA, between my apartment and the workplace would have got me sick. I carefully followed all the right precautions, maybe even more so than the heroic New York State governor Cuomo recommended: I wore an N95 mask whenever I went out for grocery shopping once a week; I used alcohol-based napkins to wipe anything I brought back home, from milk boxes to oranges (leafy vegetables were problematic!); I jumped into a shower after I wiped down, sorted out, and stocked away everything from my weekly shopping. Social distancing while shopping proved to be impractical. Some stores were just too small for a surprisingly high volume of shoppers. But I was wearing a mask, which theoretically should have prevented most contracts even if the distance was not six feet. Right? So, what went wrong to get me sick? If it’s not COVID-19 (thankfully I was still breathing with ease, maybe a touch of tightness in my chest, but a bad cold makes you feel that way too, right?), how the hell could I have caught something that was probably with fewer chances than the corona virus to catch out there now? 

I was in bed puzzled by these questions, and felt my intelligence was slightly insulted by not being able to adequately protect myself against whatever out there. Then the idea that I might die from COVID-19 got me. Damn! WHAT IF I die from it, joining the other thousands in NYC? Since I wouldn’t get a test, and probably wasn’t able to get a bed in the hospital, I might just die at home, with Xiao Mi watching me and begging for food as usual while I wouldn’t be able to respond. And my death probably wouldn’t be counted towards the death toll since the city wouldn’t magically know about it. 

AND how can I tell my mother in China about this? Obviously, I have to save my last breath to deliver her the horrible news myself. Imagine that! It would be the worst moment of my life, and her life too! I can’t bear to think that a mother has to take the news that her only daughter is dying, away from home and out of her reach. Plus, my mother had been fighting with cancer since her diagnosis last August. She had gone through bone fractures, a surgery, chemotherapy, acute kidney impairment, and loss of mobility... It would be too cruel to just add this on top of the suffering she endures already. Of course, there is no way to do the math. I mean, having cancer and losing a daughter don’t necessarily add up to more suffering than just losing a daughter or having cancer. (Well, it sounds horrible however I phrase it.) Understandably, at the moment when the realization that I might die from COVID-19 struck me, I wasn’t doing any math. Instead, I started crying. 

It was a lonely cry. I cried over a betrayal boyfriend, frustrating relationships, half-cooked doctoral dissertation, general depression, work, child never to be born, and the passing of my first cat Chino (that was a bad one), etc. Each time I cried for how I felt for myself. This time I cried over the possibility of how I might have made my mother feel. Somehow it made me feel lonelier given the circumstance: she is only a phone call away, but I can’t tell her, nor anyone. Not now, not until I got tested. And there was no way to get tested. Still, even if I were tested positive, would I tell her? Only 20% of the positive cases get into the critical situation. 

The moment of panicking and crying was nevertheless very brief. Crying literally made breathing hard when lying in bed. So, I had to get myself sitting up and Xiao Mi jumped in bed and demanded to sit on my chest (as if she knew I was NOT having a breathing problem!) for two minutes, like she often does. After she went off, I had made the decision that the best way to avoid delivering the terrible news to my mother was NOT dying. If I am not going to die, I would have never needed to tell her anything about her daughter's death.

I took a Tylenol my neighbor brought me to subdue the headache and went on sleeping that night. 

Weeks later, after I fully recovered from the sickness, cause still unknown, and resumed with zoom happy hours, yoga, biking, and packed work meetings, I came across an article on New York Times, “C.D.C. Adds New Symptoms to Its List of Possible Covid-19 Signs”. It says:

 “Chills, muscle pain, sore throat and headache are among the ailments now considered potential indicators of the disease”.

Still, with all the symptoms now included, it is a mere “potential”. How helpful is that supposed to be without a test? 

And where is the antibody test? 

April 30, 2020

Astoria, New York

Proof of Living Moments: Pure Brightness 清明

A summary of fragmented thoughts, Proof of Living Moments (PLM) intends to have an account of what comes to my mind when I am reading on the subway, walking in the street or listening to a podcast. Thoughts often appear, then disappear into the ocean of unconsciousness, as if they have never existed.

As if that living moment has never existed.

I hope these notes are at least a proof of those living moments.

“After the Rain” by Feng Zikai/《雨后》丰子恺

“After the Rain” by Feng Zikai/《雨后》丰子恺

April 4 was Qingming (清明) Festival, according to the Chinese traditional calendar. Qingming has been celebrated among Chinese since Han Dynasty (206 BC to 220 AD). As the first important holiday after Chinese Lunar New Year, Qingming marks the coming of the spring: bright and warm sunlight brings life back to the earth after a long and stark cold winter. So as human lives: families visit their ancestors' graveyards while strengthening bonds between the living and the dead, as well as among generations; spring outing is popular among young men and women, who will look for, and hopefully make love in the field! Kites are flying in the blue sky as the spring breeze gently blows. Indeed, in Chinese, 清(qīng)literally means “pure”, or “clear”; 明 (míng) means “brightness”. While it is often associated with activities including cleaning the tombs of deceased family members and ancestors (which sounds too serious), the word itself indicates days that are coming will be brighter and more lively.

Sitting in an apartment in Astoria, New York City, I heard sirens of ambulances near and far outside of my window from time to time. It’s the end of the third week staying home due to COVID-19. The sun is indeed bright. Hydrangeas I brought back last Wednesday from my last grocery trip are thriving on the balcony. The death toll in New York City reached 1,867 yesterday with a total of 63,306 confirmed cases in the morning of Saturday. Every topic on the  newspaper, TV, websites, personal blogs (including this one), is about COVID-19: scary numbers, death tolls, CDC updates (now they say you should wear a “cloth cover” when you go out in public); parents slowly or quickly driven crazy by their children; teachers talking about online teaching; many many diaries about being in New York at this time; all the documentations of this surreal moment of the human history; millions of job lost over the past 3 weeks and a gloomy future with the possibility of a great depression, perhaps worse than the one in 1929. It felt surreal at the beginning, when all of sudden the world stopped and we were all “shelter-in-place”, seeing human faces most of the time 2D through Zoom. And now it’s more real than we want to believe. 

And as far as we are still alive, life will go on. The question is how? Or, how differently will life go on?

I suspended my usual bike ride this morning, and canceled an appointment to the New York Blood Center ---- I was planning to donate blood there though eventually changed the appointment to a later date: taking a subway proved to be too daunting. I moved some debris out of my balcony and loosen the soil in a few pots. Somehow I found 3 seeds from a small jar from years ago. And I planted them all in one of the big pots. I don’t know what kind of plants they are.

The balcony overlooks a few backyards on my block. In this part of Astoria, most of the houses were 2 or 3 storied structures built years ago, with a yard in the back. My downstairs neighbor George’s garden is right beneath my balcony. A few pine trees I helped to plant years ago are still thriving; dandelions are blossoming quietly in a corner----though sadly the garden is not under good care. The yard next to his garden was left in complete wildness for a long time, but in the past few days new tenants trimmed the grass neatly. A young man was playing in the yard for a while, alone. And stopped. An old couple, whose garden is always the best attended in this little backyard world, are busy doing some gardening already. I envy their two beautiful trees blossoming with white flowers, and another one full of pink buds. Birds, all kinds, are busy chirping and yelling. I heard a loud chirp in one of the bushes and was completely absorbed for a moment, trying to find the source. 

I remember many afternoons of spring and summer are exactly like this: quiet, peaceful, nothing is really happening but life is around. 

Except for the occasional distant ambulance serien, which almost certainly is for someone critical with COVID-19. Now the weird thing is, as I enjoyed the moment, I was at the same time guilty: not too far from my house, in the Elmhurst Hospital, people were dying in hundreds; doctors working without enough protection were desperate. How can I allow myself sitting in the sun, sipping a glass of beer, and feeling tranquil? 

We are now all social distancing at home. The world is changing. And I wonder, how long will this little calm and peaceful backyard world last?

Regardless, that was a living moment during COVID-19, and now I have a proof. 

Astoria, New York

4/4/2020

Proof of Living Moments: Tough Love and Kahlil Gibran/艰难的爱与纪伯伦

by Shenzhan/申展

Reaching, Astoria, New York, May 2020 by Shenzhan/申展

Reaching, Astoria, New York, May 2020

by Shenzhan/申展

今天读到纪伯伦(1883-1931)的《先知》,有些奇怪的感觉:阳光似乎特别明亮,天空特别蓝,鸟儿的啼叫显得既特别嘈杂,又特别空寥。

意大利紧缺病床收治COVID-19的感染者,美国宣布全国进入紧急状态,纽约州长Andrew Cruomo 给总统Trump写了封公开信,要求军队增援以备应对患病和死亡人数不可避免地激增的状况。

2020年3月16日,我也要开始在家工作了。

坐在纽约Astoria公寓的书桌前,面对几近荒芜的后院——一个孩子的笑声不断传来——我读到《先知》的第二章,“关于爱”:

To wake at dawn with a winged heart and give thanks for another day of loving;

黎明醒来,带着一颗轻快的心,感谢又一天,充满爱;

To rest at the noon hour and meditate love’s ecstasy;

午间休憩,静思爱的激情;

To return home at eventide with gratitude;

黄昏归家,心怀感恩;

And then to sleep with a prayer for the beloved in your heart and a song of praise upon your lips.

然后入睡,祈祷心中所爱,唇边颂唱。

(翻译:申展;Translation by Shenzhan Liao)

我想这当是每日在家的作息。

一息尚存,就爱这世界吧。

***

It feels strange to come across “The Prophet” by Kahlil Gibran (1883 - 1931) on this day, when the sun seems to be extra bright, the sky extra blue and the birds chirping extra loud and quiet at the same time. 

Italy is running out of beds to treat patients with COVID-19; U.S. has declared national emergency; and New York governor Andrew Cuomo wrote an open letter to President Trump asking for military aid to build more medical facility quickly in order to prepare for the inevitable wave of the sick and the dead as the virus spreads exponentially. 

Starting Monday, March 16, 2020, I am going to work from home. 

Sitting at my desk facing a mostly deserted backyard in Astoria, New York, a child’s laughter piercing the air, I came across these words from “Love”, chapter 2 in “The Prophet”:

To wake at dawn with a winged heart and give thanks for another day of loving;

黎明醒来,带着一颗轻快的心,感谢又一天,充满爱;

To rest at the noon hour and meditate love’s ecstasy;

午间休憩,静思爱的激情;

To return home at eventide with gratitude;

黄昏归家,心怀感恩;

And then to sleep with a prayer for the beloved in your heart and a song of praise upon your lips.

然后入睡,祈祷心中所爱,唇边颂唱。

(翻译:申展;Translation by Shenzhan Liao)

I think it immediately gives a good structure of a day working from home. 

Still in love with this world, at every breathing moment of my life. 

Astoria, New York

March 15, 2020

Proof of Living Moments: Wendell Berry and Blue Jays

by Shenzhan/申展

A summary of fragmented thoughts, Proof of Living Moments (PLM) intends to have an account of what comes to my mind when I am reading on the subway, walking in the street or listening to a podcast. Thoughts often appear, then disappear into the ocean of unconsciousness, as if they have never existed.

As if that living moment has never existed.

I hope these notes are at least a proof of those living moments.

I found myself having the first moment of settling down in the year of 2020 while I was reading a poem by Wendell Berry (1934 — ) . I can’t help but copy it down and translate it into Chinese here:

***

How to be a poet 怎么做一个诗人

(to remind myself) (提醒自己)

By Wendell Berry 作者:Wendell Berry

Make a place to sit down. 创造一个地方坐下。

Sit down. Be quiet. 坐下。安静。

You must depend upon 你得依靠

affection, reading, knowledge, 情感,阅读,知识

skill -- more of each 技巧——每样都得

than you have--inspiration, 比你有的更多——启发,

work, growing older, patience, 工作,慢慢变老,耐心,

for patience joins time 耐心融入时光

to eternity. Any readers 与永恒。所有读者

who like your poems, 喜爱你的诗,

doubt their judgement. 怀疑自己的判断。

Breathe with unconditional breath 无条件的呼吸,呼吸

the unconditioned air. 没有被调节的空气。

Shun electric wire. 躲避电缆。

Communicate slowly. Live 慢慢交流。过

a three-dimensioned life; 一种三维的生活;

stay away from screens. 远离屏幕。

Stay away from anything 远离任何东西

that obscures the place it is in. 如果它打搅了自己所在。

There are no unsacred places; 没有不神圣的地方;

there are only scared places 只有神圣的地方

and desecrated places. 和被亵渎的地方。

Accept what comes from silence. 接受来自沉默的一切。

Make the best you can of it. 尽你所能运用沉默。

Of the little words that come 那些微不足道的字眼

out of the silence, like prayers 出自沉默,就像祈祷

prayed back to the one who prays, 返回给祈祷者,

make a poem that does not disturb 做成一首诗,不打搅

the silence from which it came. 那与之俱来的沉默。

***

Then I heard birds chirping outside of my window at the very moment when I was so moved by Berry’s poem. Naturally, I wrote the following:

Blue jays,  冠蓝鸦,

beautiful birds, 美丽的鸟儿,

came to my balcony, 来到我的阳台,

for water 从一个很早以前被遗忘在此的篮子,

in a basket forgotten there 喝水。

long time ago.

(by Shenzhan Liao)

It truly feels like a best living moment. like I am riding a wave, at its peak. Now I have a proof.

January 5, 2020

Astoria, New York

Entering Mesoamerica (5): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - A Traveler's Note

Entering Mesoamerica (5): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - A Traveler's Note

by Shenzhan/申展

Cover photo: A Street in Oaxaca, Mexico. May 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Now, after all the experiences, research and writing, it is time for a literal traveler’s log: what, when, how and how much. 

Day 1, May 22: New York - Dallas, Texas - Oaxaca, Mexico

In the street of Oaxaca, Mexico. May 22, 2019 by Shenzha/申展

In the street of Oaxaca, Mexico. May 22, 2019 by Shenzha/申展

  • Waking up at 4 am to catch a 6: 29 am flight from LGA airport in New York was not as bad as I thought. A less-than-one-hour layover at Dallas was great. And the airport at Oaxaca City, Mexico is lovely yet surprisingly tiny for an international airport! A MX$90 ride per person to Centro Oaxaca was NOT BAD at all! (AND a friend by the name of Ben, whom I just met in New York City two weeks ago came to the airport to meet us and helped with transportation. Isn’t life full of surprises?!)

  • My Airb&b had a water problem, which might have been a dire situation, as the hottest season here just started. But we got an upgrade to a nicer Bed & Breakfast, Estancia De Valencia, owned by the same owner, which was amazing! And we soon found out the homemade breakfast here was out of the world! 

Resting in the courtyard of the Airb&b. May 22, 2019

Resting in the courtyard of the Airb&b. May 22, 2019

  • Walking in Centro, Oaxaca could be as brief as one hour, or the entire afternoon (which we did after dropping off our luggage around 3 pm local time - one hour difference between NY and Oaxaca), or endless hours getting lost in the streets and boutique shops and a variety of markets (which I made several attempts in the following days).

  • Got some Taco (MX$18 each) and Guava juice (MX$35) from the street, some fruits (MX$44) in the market, dinner somewhere (MX$350 for 2) that I couldn’t remember, and ended the day at Gozobl with Mezcalines, a cocktail with pineapple, jalapeno and mezcal (MX$85).

Women selling Chapuline (crickets, grasshoppers and locusts, a delicacy in the local diet). May 22, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Women selling Chapuline (crickets, grasshoppers and locusts, a delicacy in the local diet). May 22, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Chapuline with Guacamole on a plate. May 22, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Chapuline with Guacamole on a plate. May 22, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Day 2, May 23: A Bike Tour with Carlos in Oaxaca

Carlos giving an explanation of a street mural. May 23, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Carlos giving an explanation of a street mural. May 23, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

  • Booked the tour (9 am - 2: 30 pm, $30) from Airb&b prior to the arrival. 

  • Started the day with breakfast made by Male, our amazing chief chef and everything else of the house. Name: Tamale (Banana leaf with corn beef)

  • Got a latte (MX$45) while waiting for Carlos at Punto Paz Cafe.

  • See details in WORDS: Entering Mesoamerica (2) : Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - from the Street to the Church

  • Lunch at a local market (MX$35)

  • Visited Santo Domingo (free) at 4 pm, as it’s closed between 1 pm and 4 pm for siesta. 

  • Visited the Botanical Garden of Santo Domingo (MX$50)

  • Dinner at an unmemorable place (MX$375 for 2) 

  • Post dinner ??

Meeting a local wood-print artist in a studio on the bike tour. May 23, 2019

Meeting a local wood-print artist in a studio on the bike tour. May 23, 2019

In the Botanical Garden. May 23, 2019 by M.J.

In the Botanical Garden. May 23, 2019 by M.J.

Day 3, May 24: Monte Alban and Markets

Home-made breakfast chillaquiles con huevos (eggs on chilly) by Male the chef. May 24, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Home-made breakfast chillaquiles con huevos (eggs on chilly) by Male the chef. May 24, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

  • Started the day by jogging in Centro Oaxaca and ran into kids doing rehearsal for a dance competition at Zocalo Oaxaca (a central plaza at Oaxaca)

  • Had Chillaquiles con huevos (chilly with eggs) for breakfast, of course, made by Male

  • Joined a van from Rivera del Angel to Monte Alban (MX$75). See more details in WORDS: Entering Mesoamerica (3) : Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - A VERY Brief Glance of the Ancient Civilizations

  • Talked to Ben, my new friend from NYC and went to the food market for Tlayudas for lunch (and ran into a new American friend Nick from the bike tour there!) upon his recommendation;

  • Got a beautiful bag (MX$180) from the Artisan Market near the food market, and some more fruits (Gunaana, Ranbutan, Durazno, and more Guava), fruit juice (Aguas Susi)

  • Wondered in Zocalo Oaxaca again and found it’s packed with a dance competition the kids were rehearsing for in the morning. And a seperate parade followed the competition for no apparent reason!

  • Did I mention it’s the graduation season for high school students there? Temple Santo Domingo was the place for the graduates to take photos, of course!

  • Ended the day after two bars: Bienvenidos, where we met a young man called Alfredo selling his photographs (which I bought a few), and Bulenc, recommended by Nick the American.

(Slide: from the market. May 24, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展)

Tlayudas Con Tres Carnes, a tradition Oaxaca food. May 24, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Tlayudas Con Tres Carnes, a tradition Oaxaca food. May 24, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Day 4 (really just Day 4?) , May 25: A Day Trip to Hierve el Agua

Tacos Dorados. May 25, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Tacos Dorados. May 25, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

  • Breakfast: Tacos Dorados

  • Booked a day trip to Hierve el Agua with the same tour company at Rivera del Angel, led by a nice tour guide Miguel, who spoke fluent Spanish and English. (And I was the only person on the tour whose Spanish is basically just “Hola”!)

  • Stopped by a number of places all very different and interesting, in the following order:

    • Santa Maria del Tule, a giant tree that got on Guinness World Record (and where a public bathroom costs MX$5.00)

    • Teotitlan, a textile village where vibrant colors based on plants like Indigo (blue) and grana cochinilla (an insect living in cactus) are handmade for dying.

    • A mezcal vineyard and tasting. Distilled from agave, the alcohol was obviously on every tourist route;  

    • And finally Hierve el Agua, a natural spectacular with lime-stone waterfall and water holes to swim in, surrounded by unbelievably beautiful mountains.

Hierve el Agua, May 25, 2019, by Shenzhan/申展

Hierve el Agua, May 25, 2019, by Shenzhan/申展

A traditional way of making natural color from grana cochinilla (a bug in cactus). May 25, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

A traditional way of making natural color from grana cochinilla (a bug in cactus). May 25, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

A discussion on site at Mitla with Miguel. May 25, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

A discussion on site at Mitla with Miguel. May 25, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

  • The day trip was long and I had to reschedule a planned dinner with Ben; got into a fight with M about finding a place for dinner and ended the day with a pineapple pizza from a street stand. 

  • And finally booked a flight to Mexico City on May 27.

Day 5, May 26: A Day on My Own in Centro, Oaxaca

A street in Oaxaca. May 26, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

A street in Oaxaca. May 26, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

  • Breakfast: Molletes

  • Tried and failed to find postcards

  • Visited Museo Del Templo Mayor (MX$75), with pre-columbian and colonial exhibitions next to Templo Santo Domingo. Fascinating!

  • Went to the food market for lunch again, this time ventured into the “alley of smoke” where grilled meat and veggies were freshly ordered and made from vendors. I eventually managed to order beef and chorizo, with a few plates of veggies (total MX$124). An unforgettable experience for the delicious food, beyond reasonable price, and navigation with ZERO Spanish.

  • Walked up through a street of art galleries and got myself an art work, “Peonia I” by Violeta Juarez from Mexico City (now in my living room with a frame costing twice of the art! Ridiculous!)

  • Had dinner with Ben and M in a restaurant with hot stone soup of seafood. Found out M would take a bus to Mexico City the next day.

  • Ended the day with a big fight with M on the travel schedule and EVERYTHING in life. M “fled” to Mexico City on a 1am bus.

Peony I, Violeto Juarez, Mexico. Photo by Shenzhan/申展

Peony I, Violeto Juarez, Mexico. Photo by Shenzhan/申展

Day 6, May 27: from Oaxaca to Mexico City

With Male the chef. May 27, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

With Male the chef. May 27, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

20190527_090135.jpg
  • Breakfast: Empanadas de Vegetales

  • Had my last stroll in Oaxaca City and a BIG surprise to run into Miguel in Zocalo Oaxaca! 

  • Chatted all the way on the flight with Paco, a gentleman who had a quarts business and works for the government. The flight encountered some bad turbulence but was nothing serious compared to the flight back to New York.

  • Settled in an Airb&b in Condesa; Walked around the upscale neighborhood and went to a rooftop bar and a local hangout for international visitors with M. We both agreed that the neighborhood felt like Madrid, Spain.

Running into Miguel at Zocola Oaxaca, May 27, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Running into Miguel at Zocola Oaxaca, May 27, 2019 by Shenzhan/申展

Day 7, May 28: A City Tour in Mexico City

  • Breakfast: a restaurant in Condesa (unmarkable)

  • Went on the North Route of Turibus

  • Got off the bus and jumped on a 3-hour call with Department of Education in New York State (unbelievable!)

  • Jumped back on the bus and went on its South Route (A university hosting a Confucius Institute was on the way!), which took over 4 hours to complete! 

  • Ended the day with entering a gentlemen’s bar for dinner by mistake! The service was nice, music was entertaining and the experience was oddly fantastic!

Day 8, May 29: La Casa Azul/Frida’s House

  • Moved to Coyoacan, southwest of Mexico City and hometown of Frida Kahlo

  • Checked in at La Concepcion, an Airb&b

  • 0complex with individual apartments. Quite modern and nice!

  • Visited La Casa Azul (MX$230) at 3: 30 pm and managed to get myself a ticket (MX$120) to the evening dramatization with the help of a museum staff Andrea! Amazing experience and can’t recommend highly enough! See more details at WORDS: Entering Mesoamerica (4) : Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - La Casa Azul/ Frida’s Blue House

  • Ended the day in the apartment, spending some final hour trying to figure out the plan for tomorrow!

Day 9, May 30: Teotihucan

  • From Coyoacan, I figured out the public transportation to Teotihuacan: from line 3 to line 5 to the Autobuses del Norte (the North Bus Terminal), where I got a ticket (MX$52) to Teotihuacan. The subway experience was quite smooth. There were carts just for women and children, which was nice during peak hours ( I hate filthy men touching you by accident, or just breathing!)

  • Hired an English speaking tour guide, Manuel, which cost me MX$1,500 but it’s worth the money to hear Manuel talking about local legends and beliefs. See more details on Teotihuacan (MX$75) : WORDS: Entering Mesoamerica (3) : Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - A VERY Brief Glance of the Ancient Civilizations

  • Got back to Mexico City early afternoon and paid my tribute to Roma. Ended up in a beer garden in an upscale international market called Mercado Roma. 

  • Ended the day with a dinner by myself in an upscale restaurant Los Danzantes in Coyoacan with the following menu:

    • First: Hoja Santa, a soup-like appetizer with Mexican pepper leaf with melted goat cheese with spicy tomato and chilli source

    • Second: Sopa de Guias, a VERY nice soup based on a traditional Oaxaca recipe, zucchini and its flowers in a broth with tender corn kernels. Absolutely delicious with rich flavor from the corn yet not overpowering the crunchy zucchini. The flower is more for the look than the taste, I guess.

    • Entree: Huachinango Estilo Tikin-xic (don’t ask me how to say it!): Red Snapper accompanied by tacos with plantain and avocado in black mole, a chocolate based source. The fish was juicy and the Tacos added a right touch of natural sweetness; the avocado was a nice lubricant. I am not a big fan of Mole but it’s nice to have something so international and so traditionally Oaxaca!

    • My end word: I finished everything! The young and Spanish-speaking waiter overcharged my tip but it’s all good in the end. 

    • I took a cab back to the AirB&B, packed everything and got myself ready for an early flight tomorrow.

Day 10, May 31: Back to New York City

  • The Uber driver was on time and pleasant.

  • Never felt unsafe the entire time in Mexico.

  • The most unsafe time was on the flight (through Viva Aerobus) back to New York City, which apparently had some landing issues and got everybody talk to each other to ease the nerve (and I got to know the good-looking gay man sitting next to me flew to NYC every month to be with his partner and this was his worst flight too!)

  • I landed in NYC safely and was happy to see Xiaomi, whom, as a cat, was naturally mad at me for being absent for 10 days. 

    The End

THE LOG: July 20, 2019 Too Much Culture, Too Little Time!

THE LOG: July 20, 2019 Too Much Culture, Too Little Time!

by Shenzhan/申展

It might not be a very good idea to see two exhibitions on one visit to the MET, but it does save time. So, here I am, one day after, still quite overwhelmed. Even worse, now I feel I have to write something about the exhibitions before they fade in the memory of the hottest weekend in the summer of 2019. 

Two special exhibitions at the MET this summer are of my particular interest. 

CAMP: notes on fashion is almost entirely based on Susan Sontag’s 1964 essay “Notes on ‘Camp'” ,which kicked off her career as a literary critic in the U.S. by getting in mainstream the word “Camp”, originated from the reign of the French King Louis XIV in 17th century (btw: his reign is over 72 years, the longest in European history! He certainly dwarfs Kang Xi, whose reign lasted 61 years, the longest in China’s imperial history). In her own words, the essence of Camp is “its love of the unnatural: of artifice and exaggeration.” Over time, there are variations of the definition, but the artificial, exaggerated, flamboyant fashion is surely on exhibit at the MET.

“Cauliflower” Headpiece, by Deirdre Hawken, 2013

“Cauliflower” Headpiece, by Deirdre Hawken, 2013

The other exhibition, Play It Loud, presents 130 instruments from legendary musicians of Rock and Roll. While it appears to be completely different from CAMP, I find, in fact the essence is quite similar. The 60s not only got Camp in the mainstream, but also witnessed the golden time of Rock and Roll. Some of its biggest stars style, like Prince, is undoubtedly campish (if that is a word…). For those who love music, especially Rock and Roll, it would be thrilling to see up close their favorite singers instruments, each specially designed, storied, and often worn out by the musician personally. For me, it’s the Beatles drum set, and guitars played by Jimmy Page, the lead singer of Led Zeppelin.

Downbeat four-piece kit in black-oyster-pearl finish with crymbals, Ludwig Drum Co., Chicago; Avedis Zildjian Co., Norwell, Mass.; Boosey and Hawkes, Edgeware, Longdon 1963

Downbeat four-piece kit in black-oyster-pearl finish with crymbals, Ludwig Drum Co., Chicago; Avedis Zildjian Co., Norwell, Mass.; Boosey and Hawkes, Edgeware, Longdon 1963

Jimmy Page’s Rig

Jimmy Page’s Rig

Of course, an exhibition of instrument can’t be without the music itself. And it’s definitely a good education on Rock and Roll. Below are the songs on the gallery list:

“While My Guitar Gently Weeps”, the Beatles

“Shapes of Things”, the Yardbirds

“Layla”, Eric Clapton and Jim Gordon

“Fire on the Mountain”, the Grateful Dead

“Woodstock”, Crosby, Stills, Nash, and Young

“Gimme Shelter”, The Rolling Stones

“All Along the Watchtower” Jimi Hendrix

“Pride (In the Name of Love)”, U2

“Rattlesnake”, St. Vincent

“Seven Nation Army”, The White Stripes

And the MET curator Jayson Kerr Dobney has a 71-song playlist on spotify!

I guess I’ve got plenty of music for Sunday. 

And did I mention I had my first Qin class at China Institute on the same day?

Astoria, New York

July 21, 2019


Proof of Living Moments: A Message to "My Dear Child"

by Shenzhan/申展

A summary of fragmented thoughts during the week, Proof of Living Moments (PLM) intends to have an account of what comes to my mind when I am reading on the subway, walking in the street or listening to a podcast. Thoughts often appear, then disappear into the ocean of unconsciousness, as if they have never existed.

As if that living moment has never existed.

I hope these notes are at least a proof of those living moments.

I was reading an article from New York Times on June 15, 2019, “Nazi Killed Her Father: Then She Fell in Love with One”, a story of a family history deeply complicated and disturbing. Immediately after reading the article, I wrote down the following message. Today, July 5, 2019, as I am reading the message again, it still strikes me of its relevance. 

My Dear Child,

When you grow up, you will discover that disregard your humanity, intelligence, kind will, personality, you will be judged, at some point, by race, class, ideology, religion, etc. Is it fair? Absolutely not! But shall we live with anger, frustration or despair? No. My dear child. I challenge you to live a life that’s full of joy, love and kindness in spite of the unfairness. Just remember, such a life is not given. Sometimes you have to fight for it from others. Most of the time, it’s a fight with and within yourself. 

Always humble. Always thinking of the fact that ON ONE is innocent. 

The thought of this, to me, is a living moment. And now I have a proof. 

Astoria, New York

7/5/2019

Entering Mesoamerica (4): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - La Casa Azul / The Blue House of Frida

Entering Mesoamerica (4): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - La Casa Azul / The Blue House of Frida

By Shenzhan/申展

Cover photo: Viva la Vida (Live Life), Frida Kahlo, Frida Kahlo Museum, 1954.

该文有中文版本 “走进中美洲(四):Oaxaca与墨西哥之旅——La Casa Azul和Frida的“蓝房子”

Frida Kahlo (1907-1954) is perhaps the most famous Mexican artist that I know before this Mexico trip. I remember my first Christmas in New York, walking in the cold crisp air passing by a midtown gallery, my attention was caught by a large-sized oil painting of a brown-colored woman, short-haired with a rather serious look on her face, a light mustache above her upper lip, and two strikingly thick eyebrows touching each other. Not too long afterwards I got to know it was a portrait of Frida, THE Mexican artist who is internationally known for her tragic life accident, complicated romantic relationships with, among many others, Diego Rivera (1886 - 1957), and her passion for life and art, which was deeply rooted in the indigenous Mexican tradition. Two weeks before the trip, I tried to get into “Frida Kahlo: Appearances Can Ben Deceiving”, a special exhibition on Frida’s life and work at the Brooklyn Museum in New York. The tickets were sold out until the end of the show. (WELL, I am going to Mexico City anyway !)

La Casa Azul (the Blue House), Frida Kahlo Museum, Coyoacan, Mexico City, May 2019.

La Casa Azul (the Blue House), Frida Kahlo Museum, Coyoacan, Mexico City, May 2019.

At 3 pm on May 29, 2019, I was waiting outside of Frida Kahlo Museum, in Coyoacan, a historical town in southern Mexico City. The museum is where Frida was born, and where she breathed her last. It’s a charming two-story house with a large beautiful garden, surrounded by a wall painted electric cobalt blue. Some of Frida’s art works are displayed here, as well as her kitchen, the art studio Diego built for her with volcanic rocks, her daybed and night bedroom, and Diego’s room (the couple had separate bedrooms later in life). There is always a line getting into the museum. Mexicans adore Frida and affectionately call the museum “La Casa Azul” (the Blue House).

La Casa Azul does not collect Frida’s most famous art works, which would have been in the hands of private collectors and museums. Though standing in front of “Viva la Vida” (Live Life), I was overwhelmed by the strong, genuine longing for life Frida demonstrated in the painting - a still life of watermelons, some cut open with the red juicy meat exposed with black seeds. It is the last painting Frida did. A few days later, just moments before she passed away, Frida added the words “Viva la Vida” in one cut-open watermelon at the very front. Despite all she had to suffer -- her life had been subject to pain, medication, corsets, fragile health, and a constant longing for the freedom her body couldn’t allow ever since the devastating accident that fractured multiple parts of her body when she was 18; her complicated relationship with Diego Rivera, who’s 20 years in her senior and already an internationally famous muralist when they married in 1929. While both had love affairs throughout their marriage, Frida was more expressive in art of her frustrations about Diego’s affairs, one of them involving her own sister -- in the last moments of her life at the age of 47, despite all the pain, frustrations, heartbroken moments, life was still worth living. Viva la Vida!

Viva la Vida (Live Life), 1954, Frida Kahlo Museum, Mexico City

Viva la Vida (Live Life), 1954, Frida Kahlo Museum, Mexico City

In spite of her love for Diego, Frida’s affairs with men and women certainly add color to her international fame. Her many lovers include Nickolas Muray (1892-1965), who photographed some of the best pictures of Frida during their 10-year on-and-off affair starting in 1931, shortly after her marriage to Diego. One of the photographs from 1939 is on display at La Casa Azul. In the photo, Frida radiates a beauty with a soft smile that carries a fading tenderness, which I rarely see from her most famous self-portraits or other photographs.

Frida Kahlo, photographed by Nickolas Muray, New York, 1939

Frida Kahlo, photographed by Nickolas Muray, New York, 1939

Her brief affair with Leon Trotsky (1879 - 1940) has a dedicated section in the gallery of La Casa Azul. Trotsky, in exile from the Soviet Union, stayed with Diego and Frida for two years here from 1937 to 1939. He later moved to a house nearby after a quarrel with Diego ( I wonder why!) and was assassinated there, now the Leon Trotsky Museum (Needless to say, Coyoacan is a storied town because of Frida and Trotsky!). Their tumultuous relationship is demonstrated in a 1937 self-portrait  Frida dedicated to her lover at the time.

My favorite discovery though was her yet another passionate affair with Isamu Noguchi (1904–1988), a critically acclaimed Japanese-American sculptor. Every morning on weekends, I pass by the Noguchi Museum in Long Island City, New York on a bike but have never thought there was a connection between these two artists. Their affair was brief, yet they remain friends until Frida’s death in 1954. Noguchi sent to Frida a collection of butterflies, still in a case hanging on the ceiling of her nightbed. On the blue wall around a corner in the garden printed the lyrics of a song left by Patti Smith in 2012, titled “Noguchi’s Butterflies”:

by Shenzhan, May 29, 2019

by Shenzhan, May 29, 2019

Noguchi’s butterflies above Frida’s nightbed, by Shenzhan/申展, May 29, 2019

Noguchi’s butterflies above Frida’s nightbed, by Shenzhan/申展, May 29, 2019

A sculpture at Noguchi Museum, Long Island City, New York.

A sculpture at Noguchi Museum, Long Island City, New York.

In the end, it’s her deepest love of native Mexican folk art that completes Frida Kahlo 's international fame. Through her art, she finally broke free from the corset that restrained her body, the relationships she had herself entangled, and made the native folk art from her beloved land stand out in the post-colonial Mexico and the world. In Paris, London, New York, she was celebrating her native culture, brilliantly, unapologetically, and rebelliously. Like her famed husband Diego, who’s known for making communist murals, Frida was deeply committed to the cause of communism (at the foot of her night-bed, there are portraits of Marx, Engels, Lenin, Stalin and Mao!). And yet, her self-portraits and other paintings, tell a much more personal story of her as an individual - perhaps, the struggle she endured between a fragile body and a mind longing for freedom, can be viewed as a symbolic one between a Mexico with thousands of years of pre-colonial tradition in heart and soul and a colonial history that still dominates every part of Mexican life today. That said, as the physical struggle is so essential as a human experience, it could be viewed as a symbol for almost any type of struggle. For better or worse, Frida made native Mexican folk art cool in the world -- if you happened to try to get a ticket to the Frida show at the Brooklyn Museum this May, you would know exactly what I mean.

After dawn that evening, I found myself walking with a group of 20 or so people in the garden following a middle-aged woman, who dressed up in traditional Tehuana fashion that Frida is known for, and a plump round-faced man in western suits playing violin. It was a dramatization of Frida’s life played in the garden every last Wednesday of the month. The show was entirely in Spanish, yet the actress deftly acted out scenes while taking the group through the garden, sometimes with a monologue when she stood on the steps of a pyramid Diego built for Frida; sometimes a dialogue she suddenly turned to the audience; and, sometimes a song as the violin played a melody in the background. I could only guess that the performance was quite engaging from the response of the audience, but nevertheless enjoyed the music, singing, and the fact that I was walking in Frida’s garden after sunset, when this unusual yet enchanting experience was unfolding. The green lush plants and the cobalt blue wall grew darker and softer in the twilight.

A dramatization of Frida, Frida Kahlo Museum, May 29, 2019

A dramatization of Frida, Frida Kahlo Museum, May 29, 2019

A garden in the twilight, Frida Kahlo Museum, May 29, 2019

A garden in the twilight, Frida Kahlo Museum, May 29, 2019

Walking out of La Casa Azul, I can now claim myself a true fan of Frida Kahlo.

Astoria, New York

6/30/2019

Related essay:

Entering Mesoamerica (3): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - A VERY Brief Glance of the Ancient Civilizations

Entering Mesoamerica (2): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - from the Street to the Church

Entering Mesoamerica (1): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - Preface

Read more of Shenzhan Liao’s blog Making Sense. 意






Entering Mesoamerica (3): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - A VERY Brief Glance of the Ancient Civilizations

Entering Mesoamerica (3): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - A VERY Brief Glance of the Ancient Civilizations

By Shenzhan/申展

Cover photo: Shenzhan standing on top of the Sun, Teotihucán, San Juan, Mexico, May 2019

该文有中文版本 “走进中美洲(三):Oaxaca与墨西哥之旅——古文明一瞥”

I went to Monte Albán in the morning of May 24, 2019, a hot and dry Friday. It’s an archaeological site of an ancient city over 6,400 feet (1,900 meters) above the sea level, higher than Oaxaca City. After a 20-minute ride in a small yet comfortable van from Hotel Rivera del Angel, M and I entered the site from its north-east corner, with a 2007 Lonely Planet as our guide.

A city from 500 B.C. is below us. To the south is the Main Plaza, the largest and tallest among all stone structures on site. Small buildings are laid out in the vast flat space between the Main Plaza and a north plaza. Scattering in the space, there were a group of students led by their teacher explaining the drainage system running underneath the ground; random vendors with small artifacts to sell; and a couple of tiny lizards sunbathing on the side. The space is said to be an ancient court for the Mesoamerican Ballgame*(more in Shenzhan’s THOUGHT BUBBLE), a ritualistic game dated back to 1200 B.C.. Covered by only grass (there is one lush giant tree standing at a corner to offer some shade from the brutal sun in the high land), this court now is still lined up with platforms, stone structures probably built for aristocracies to watch the game, and for priests to perform sacrificial rituals. One structure nearby was identified as los Danzantes (the Dancers), as carvings of dancers were discovered inside.

Monte Albán from the Main Plaza to the south, Oaxaca, May 2019

Monte Albán from the Main Plaza to the south, Oaxaca, May 2019

Shenzhan’s THOUGHT BUBBLE: I am fascinated by the ancient Mesoamerican Ballgame. According to archaeological discoveries, the Mesoamerican Ballgame was highly symbolic: the ball might represent the sun, and the court the sky. Evidently it was very sacred and popular among all Mesoamerican civilizations (Omelc, Maya, Zapotec, Mixtec, etc.) since similar courts were built in almost every ancient city discovered. The game is said to be played by two teams chasing a rather heavy ball made of hard rubber. Over centuries, there were variations in different regions and at different times. Some later courts would have a ring in the middle for goal. While the purpose of the ballgame and exactly how it was played are still a mystery, it’s almost certain that they were symbolic and religious. Some even argue that they were also for settling disputes among tribes in order to avoid wars (how civil!). One object called the “yoke”, often in the shape of frogs or toads and carved with motifs of local gods, is associated with the game. I tend to believe that the yoke was only used for rituals as I can hardly imagine any player could wear it while chasing the hard rubber ball. It does look powerful and full of magic, though.
A Ballplayer, Mexico, Jalisco, 100 B.C. to 300 A.D., the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

A Ballplayer, Mexico, Jalisco, 100 B.C. to 300 A.D., the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Frog Yoke, Mexico, Classic Veracruz, 6th - 8th Century, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

Frog Yoke, Mexico, Classic Veracruz, 6th - 8th Century, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York.

All the structures on the site are along a north-south axis except for one, uncharacteristically named in Lonely Planet as “Edificio J” , in front of the Main Plaza. Its 45-degree angle is said to be built for astronomical observations in order for the priests to track the passage of the sun and calculate the seasons. Standing on top of the steps of the Main Plaza, I tried to imagine the priests standing on these structures to provide guidance for agricultural activities in ancient times. Mesoamerican civilizations in general followed a 360-day solar calendar (plus 5 unnamed days to make it 365 days in total)  for agricultural cycles and a 260-day calendar for ritual activities, which is remarkably similar to Chinese yin-yang calendars!

“Edificio J”, Monte Albán, Oaxaca, Mexico

“Edificio J”, Monte Albán, Oaxaca, Mexico

Not surprisingly, unlike Oaxaca City, there is little trace of colonialism except for a new fresco of Alfonso Caso (1896-1970) at the entrance of the site. Caso is called the “Discoverer of Monte Albán”, and was responsible for the 1931 archaeological excavation of the site, which by then has been abandoned for centuries since 850 A.D. Caso appears in the fresco with a pair of glasses, western-style shirt and pants, and knee-high boots. But at least he’s Mexican!

Even with very brief time in Mexico, one could tell its history is essentially divided into two by the year of 1521: pre-colonial period and after. Like many old empires encountering Western European colonialism (including China's Qing Empire), it is the year when Tenochtitlán, the capital of the Aztec Empire and current day Mexico City fell under the attack of the Spanish general Hernán Cortés , who started conquering Central America with a couple of ships, 600 soldiers, a few cannons ( not always functioning but nevertheless very scary to the natives), dogs and horses (creatures natives haven’t seen before), etc. Today when one walks in the streets of Oaxaca and Mexico City, its colonial past is quite obvious: the language spoken is largely Spanish (I guess, since I couldn’t tell if an indigenous language -- there are over 68 or more of them -- is spoken anyway…), the buildings are mostly in European style*(more in Shenzhan’s THOUGHT BUBBLE), and the churches are by and large Catholic.

Shenzhan’s THOUGHT BUBBLE: Mexico City was rebuilt by the Spaniards after the conquering. In its recent modern history, Mexico City underwent many construction projects erecting structures by architects from Italy and France, especially during the 31-year presidency of Porfirio Diaz (1876–1880, 1884–1911), who was determined to build a modern, sophisticated capital of Mexico that could rival Paris or London. Sitting on the top deck of the Turi City Bus touring around the historical district of Mexico City, I learned most of the buildings, monuments and statues were built during the Porfirio. A major street in Oaxaca City is named after the president too. Porfirio is controversial though: his presidency is for sure too long; Major cultural projects can easily be controversial anyway. Plus he ended up in Paris and is still buried there!

However, for a land where ancient civilizations can be traced back to 3500 B.C. and earlier times, its colonial history is the only very recent. Like other regions in the world, civilizations here clustered in certain geographic areas, goods and people were traded and exchanged, cities like Monte Albán were built, reached their peaks as the center for certain civilization, and were abandoned when the civilization collapsed. Unlike China, Rome or Egypt, no single Mesoamerican civilization overcame the entire region of Central America. Obviously civilizations in this region shared lots of similarities such as their religions, calendars, architecture, etc. However the word “Mesoamerican civilization” is merely a concept for the convenience of western-eccentric archaeologists, anthropologists and historians.

Historians generally divide pre-Columbian Mesoamerican history into several major periods: Archaic era (before 2600 B.C.) when archaeological discoveries suggest agricultural settlements already existed; Pre-classic or Formative era (2000 B.C. to 250 C.E.) when Olmec (1200 B.C. to 400 B.C.) centered around Veracruz and Tabasco in the Gulf of Mexico came to known today for their colossal heads and jade masks. In the south, Zapotec people in the Valley of Oaxaca started to build Monte Albán and the process continued for centuries; Classic era (150 - 900 C.E.) during which Zapotec continued to flourish while Maya civilization started to dominate the east part of the Gulf of Mexico, eventually compassing a large area from modern-day Yucatán, Quintana Roo, Campeche, Tabasco, and Chiapas in Mexico and southward through Guatemala, Belize, El Salvador and Honduras. In today’s Valley of Mexico, the ancient city of Teotihuacán was built, though its founder was a long debate. At the end of this era, several civilizations declined or collapsed. Cities like Monte Albán and Teotihuacán declined and eventually were abandoned; Post-classic era (900 to 1521) saw a few civilizations continued such as Maya and Zapotec, and the rise of newcomers such as the Aztec. The Aztecs were late to the political scene in the Valley of Mexico but managed to start its empire in the 15th Century and was on its way to dominate Central Mexico until it was met (and stopped) by the Spaniards. The history after is changed by colonialism.

This super simplified history of the Central America region obviously fails to include many important details, peoples and civilizations, as well as the complex relationships among them. However, keeping this rough timeline in mind did provide me a helpful historical orientation on day trips to ancient sites like Monte Albán in Oaxaca and Teotihuacán near Mexico City. Not only it was helpful, it was also inspiring to realize that Mesoamerica has much older civilizations that have completed many cycles in the pre-colonial period. Yet, the stunning signature of their wisdom has survived thousands of years, numerous wars, and cultural genocide when civilizations clash.

Olmec Colossal Head, Museo de Anthropologia de Xalapa, Xalapa, Mexico.Source: TripAdvisor

Olmec Colossal Head, Museo de Anthropologia de Xalapa, Xalapa, Mexico.

Source: TripAdvisor

Jade Mask, Mexico, Olmec, 10th - 6th Century B.C., the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Jade Mask, Mexico, Olmec, 10th - 6th Century B.C., the Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

In a much larger scale, Teotihuacán to Mexico City is like Monte Albán to Oaxaca City. Leaving at 6: 40 am on May 30, 2019 from Cayoacán, I took an Uber, a subway and a bus from Mexico Norte Bus Terminal. By 9:00 am, I was standing (somewhat proudly, for my skill navigating the public transportation system in the humongous Mexico City)  in front of the entrance to Teotihuacán. To get the best of the trip, I managed to hire Manuel, an English tour guide. Whenever Manuel wanted to call my attention, he would start with “hei, lady!” (versus “Ladies and Gentlemen”, as he would usually do to address a group). Teotihuacán, named by the Aztecs as “the birthplace of the gods”, was built around 100 B.C. and at its peak the largest city in America with a population likely surpassing 250,000.  Its three main pyramids, the Moon, the Sun and Quetzal (bird) Coatle (serpent), “the Feathered Serpent”, are positioned according to the three stars of the Orion, the same constellation which guided the ancient Egyptians to build their great pyramids, over 2,500 years earlier. The luxury of having Manuel was to learn many amazing tales of ancient science, symbolism and astrology. However, being the only one bearing the cost, I literally gave him my last MX dollar in cash when we departed, amusingly, at the central sacrificial platform in front of the Moon! After Manuel left, I climbed up the Moon, which offers the unparalleled view of the magnificent axial avenue; and the Sun, which was most tough as it is the tallest of all the structures at Teotihuacán. Looking up from the foot of the Sun, the steps literally looked like the stairs to heaven! With the temperature rising as the day went, and absolutely no shades, the journey certainly reminds me that the Aztecs called the pyramid “the Sun” for a good reason!

the Moon, Teotihuacán, San Juan, Mexico

the Moon, Teotihuacán, San Juan, Mexico

the Moon and the Avenue of the Death, from the Sun, Teotihuacán, San Juan, Mexico

the Moon and the Avenue of the Death, from the Sun, Teotihuacán, San Juan, Mexico

the Sun, Teotichuan, San Juan, Mexico

the Sun, Teotichuan, San Juan, Mexico

I love ancient sites. It’s exciting to know that ancient people might have been standing exactly the same spot as I was, as if energies mysteriously overlap with each other, several thousand years apart. It is also a tremendously humbling experience to realize that ancient civilizations, despite the fact that they have disappeared long time ago, did leave these amazing structures standing in front of my eyes, telling me, an individual who doesn’t speak their language and hasn’t encountered a single soul of their time, their ways of thinking and understanding of the universe. I am not sure that any nation, state or cultural groups today, no matter how powerful they appear on media, will be certain to achieve the same.

Seriously, what can we leave behind for people after thousands of years to visit, and to admire?

Astoria, New York

6/17/2019

Related essay:

Entering Mesoamerica (2): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - from the Street to the Church

Entering Mesoamerica (1): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - Preface

Read more of Shenzhan Liao’s blog Making Sense. 意


Entering Mesoamerica (2): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - from the Street to the Church

Entering Mesoamerica (2): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - from the Street to the Church

by Shenzhan/申展

Cover photo: Carlos from Oaxaca, May 2019

该文有中文版本“走进中美洲(二):Oaxaca与墨西哥之旅——从街头到教堂”

At 9 am on May 23, 2019, Carlos, a slender and handsome young man managing a touring business called COYOTE Aventuras in Oaxaca, started a day of 4-hour bike tour of street art in Oaxaca around the corner of a quiet street behind Templo de Santo Domingo. A small group of visitors, including M and me from New York, the rest from San Diego, have gathered around him, listening attentively.

Pointing at a black and white image of a Mexican woman hugging tightly a heart with vines forming number “43”, referring to 43 university students murdered in 2014, allegedly, by the city of Iguala government from Guerrero, a neighboring state of Oaxaca, Carlos jumped right into the most recent bleak political issue in Mexico, the corrupted government and its anti-drug war that for many are violent and murderous to its own people. Carlos surely brought up a surprisingly serious topic for me to digest after a delicious breakfast of Tamale -- corn and beef steamed in wrapped banana leaf, a traditional Oaxaca home-cooked food by my Airbnb hostess Male-- nevertheless, muralism in Mexico became a movement after the Mexican Revolution (1910-20) to reunite people by conveying strong political and social messages. One of the most famous mural artists is Diego Rivera (1886 - 1957), whose pro-communism anti-capitalism murals are still on display at the Detroit Institute of Art, and of course, his national gallery in Mexico City, among many other places.  With such an origin, Carlos’ politically loaded beginning of the day was perhaps unavoidable.

Street Art, Oaxaca, May 2019

Street Art, Oaxaca, May 2019

Some murals only speak to people who know the background, like the ones Carlos started with. Some are strikingly colorful and artistically expressive with interesting details that could be appreciated by anyone with a glance. For example, a large mural covering the entire corner of a street in Jalatlaco, a neighborhood right next to Centro, Oaxaca, puts the “Day of the Dead” parade on display. A tradition traced back to pre-colonial time, this national holiday now starts on October 31 and ends on November 2, when people offer to the dead food, possessions and respect, while celebrating among the living with hot chocolate, music, tacos , mezcal, and fireworks! In indigenous Mexico culture, there might not be a clear line between the dead and the living. Many murals have a surprising level of comfort with the skulls and skeletons, which are of course symbols of death, but amusingly enjoy everything that life gives - peeing, drinking, dancing, fighting, playing music, etc.

“the Day of the Dead”, Jalatlaco, Oaxaca, May 2019

“the Day of the Dead”, Jalatlaco, Oaxaca, May 2019

My favorite ones are mostly contextual: a giant monster coming out of the hallucination one might have after consuming one or more Mexican mushrooms, partially covered by the branches from above and partially disappearing because of the decaying of the wall itself; a mural telling the story of the neighborhood, where a thief was caught and hung (isn’t there a strange acute sense of humor?! Not for the dead thief, sadly. ) while deftly using the living tree behind the wall as part of the painting; or a sexy half-octopus half-female creature romantically kissing a masked human(??) in a quiet, almost deserted street where trees fell down and piled up in front of the mural -- a tender resistance and loneliness. Carlos warned everyone to wear comfortable clothing, sunscreen, and keep hydration, and he was not kidding!  

Street art, Oaxaca, May 2019

Street art, Oaxaca, May 2019

Street art, Oaxaca, May 2019

Street art, Oaxaca, May 2019

Street art, Oaxaca, May 2019

Street art, Oaxaca, May 2019

Most street murals do not last very long, only for weeks, or for the lucky ones, months, which makes them interesting and relevant, as you could feel the concern, humor, passion and stories as walking by. Many art studios scatter along Porfirio Diaz, a north-south street packed with restaurants, bars, and art galleries, presenting a forever changing scene of Oaxaca to both locals and visitors, all within walking distance from Templo De Santo Domingo.

Templo de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca, May 2019

Templo de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca, May 2019

In contrast, the highly decorated baroque-style Templo De Santo Domingo, now standing with its full glory and stature in the heart of Centro Oaxaca, represents an establishment exactly the opposite of the street mural art -- permanent, distant, and power from higher up. Built over 200 years starting in 1575,  its sanctuary covered with 60,000 23.5-karat gold leaves does not fail to instill a sense of awe even I possess very little knowledge of the Dominican Order, which founded the church about 50 years after the fall of the Aztec Empire.

Interior of the Sanctuary, Templo de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca, May 2019

Interior of the Sanctuary, Templo de Santo Domingo, Oaxaca, May 2019

In retrospect, the arrival of Columbus in 1492 to Central America was really the beginning of genocide of Mesoamerican peoples and cultures. The ruling Aztec Empire at the time was certainly far from ideal. In fact, it was so unpopular that many native tribes helped Hernán Cortés (1485 - 1547) and his Spanish army to defeat the Aztecs in 1521. The natives might feel relieved to see the tribunal system imposed by the Aztec Empire gone, but would soon find themselves living in a much worse situation: the Spaniards created a Colonial Casta System with people of pure Spanish blood on the top enjoying most legal rights; natives were essentially slaves of Spanish lords who own the land and its product; smallpox ravaged the native population as they didn’t have the immunity to the disease….. By 1600, the native population shrank from 20 million before Cortés to 2 million. African slaves had to be brought in to supplement the labor shortage. (in the end, the Game of Thrones are not at all original!) While gold and glory were taken by Spanish conquerors, natives gods were replaced with GOD -- A Christianized New Spain was what the Spanish Empire wanted.

When three hundred years of colonialism ended in 1820, Mexico was by and large a Catholic state. The Spaniards may have left Mexico, but their GOD stays. The saints of Dominican Order preaching the gospel are all sitting in Templo de Santo Domingo, showered with gold, literally.

Today Templo de Santo Domingo is essentially divided into 3 parts: the sanctuary is open to the public free of charge; the former monastery now is the Cultural Centre of Oaxaca, a museum where the pre-colonial gods of indigenous people are under the same roof as the Christ, in one statue wearing a crown characteristically native; the garden attached to the monastery now is the Botanical Garden of Oaxaca, with a very impressive collection of cactus, agave, corn, trees with a variety of beautiful flowers unique to the region. A charming young lady wearing a summer hat gave a 1.5-hour tour in Spanish, guiding the group through the paved paths in the garden, calmly gave an alarming instruction: you are allowed to pick up flowers falling on the ground, but many are poisonous (i.e. please act with your own judgement!). Today, I am glad to report that M was kind enough to translate this very important warning into English for me.

A Xipe Totec god from 900 A.D. and a statue of the Christ, the Cultural Centre of Oaxaca, May 2019

A Xipe Totec god from 900 A.D. and a statue of the Christ, the Cultural Centre of Oaxaca, May 2019

from the Botanical Garden of Oaxaca, May 2019

from the Botanical Garden of Oaxaca, May 2019

I was overloaded with everything for the first full day in Oaxaca, its past, present, and perhaps future (in hallucination?) and effectively forget what I did for that evening. I just hope that I don’t miss anything important.

Astoria, New York

6/9/2019

Related essay:

Entering Mesoamerica (3): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - A VERY Brief Glance of the Ancient Civilizations

Entering Mesoamerica (1) : Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - Preface

Read more of Shenzhan Liao’s blog Making Sense. 意

Entering Mesoamerica (1) : Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - Preface

Entering Mesoamerica (1) : Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - Preface

by Shenzhan / 申展

该文有中文版本“走进中美洲(一):Oaxaca与墨西哥之旅——前言”

Cover photo: Oaxaca, May 2019

One might say the best to bring home from a trip are the memories. But I fear memories will fade before I know it.

Less than a week after I came back from Oaxaca and Mexico City, I stand at the bus stop on Broadway in Astoria, waiting for Q101 to take me home while flipping photos on my phone nonstop. There is a fear growing in me that those still pictures, and only the pictures will replace my memories. I fear because I believe there should be something more than that.

In Oaxaca the streets are lined up with colorful 16th-century Spanish style two-or-three storied buildings in red, blue, yellow, pink, etc.; the bright red flowers blossom on top of the trees outside of Santo Domingo Catholic Church as if someone is screaming on top of the lungs; the bleak black and white wood-prints on the wall of a street corner cry to condemn the corrupted government for brutally murdering its own students and teachers; the cloudless clear blue sky seems very far and very close at the same time, with dazzling bright sunlight everywhere; the agaves, of course, the agaves, thrive in this dry highland (being over 5,000 feet does have an effect on some people) with all their teeth and claws, yet hundreds of years ago  people figured out ways to tame these animal-like plants to get what they need for a good life here: fiber for weaving goods, vegetable for food, and Mezcal…

Agave in Mitla, Oaxaca, May 2019

Agave in Mitla, Oaxaca, May 2019

It’s the end of the dry season here, I was told. June is the beginning of the rainy season in Mexico, which could last till November. Sitting in the well tree-shaded Zocalo Oaxaca where “beggars, vendors, locals and visitors” (in that order, from a 2007 Lonely Planet) all gather and supposedly you could watch the world passing by endlessly, my friend M and I only experienced a very brief sprinkle of rain that was largely unnoticed as we tried to decide whether we should try Chapuline (the Mexican name for crickets, grasshoppers and locusts, essentially a delicacy in the local diet) with guacamole ---- and we did.

Zocalo Oaxaca, May 2019

When the first night arrived, M and I were sitting at Gozobl, a rooftop bar near Templo de Santo Domingo sipping Mezcalines, a cocktail with pineapple, jalapeno and Mezcal. From the top of a 2-storied building, we could see the shadows of giant dark blue mountains as the backdrop, a reminder that the city is located in the Central Valley of southeast Mexico, the very heartland of indigenous Mexican people and culture, as well as a colonial past, and present.

From Gozobl, Oaxaca, May 2019

From Gozobl, Oaxaca, May 2019

It was only 8 hours after we landed in the very small Oaxaca airport via a 3-staff (1 pilot and 2 very friendly flight attendants) airplane from Huston, Texas. With a Mezcalines in hand watching the scattered lights blinking halfway through the mountains surrounding us, it felt as if I have been here for a very long time, if not forever.

Astoria, New York

6/5/2019

Related article:

Entering Mesoamerica (2) : Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - from the Street to the Church

Entering Mesoamerica (3): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - A VERY Brief Glance of the Ancient Civilizations

Entering Mesoamerica (4): Exploring Oaxaca and Mexico City - La Casa Azul/ Frida’s Blue House

Explore more of Shenzhan/申展’s blog: Making Sense. 意

Proof of Living Moments: The Cranberries and Waiting in Walthamstow

by Shenzhan/申展

Cover of Roses, The Cranberries

Cover of Roses, The Cranberries

A summary of fragmented thoughts during the week, Proof of Living Moments (PLM) intends to have an account of what comes to my mind when I am reading on the subway, walking in the street or listening to a podcast. Thoughts often appear, then disappear into the ocean of unconsciousness, as if they have never existed.

As if that living moment has never existed.

I hope these notes are at least a proof of those living moments.

April 26, 2019. In the End, the 8th and last of album by The Cranberries is out.

I heard this through “All Songs Considered”, a podcast on today’s music, with an ear-mug BOSE attached to my head on the way to work in downtown Manhattan. Like many New Yorkers, I nowadays walk in the street wearing a big BOSE headset, which was quite good in the winter as it worked as a pair of ear mugs. Now it becomes questionable with the warm weather. On crowded subways, I take it off as it might appear to be a bit obnoxious since the BOSE seems to scream “DON’T TALK TO ME! I AM IN MY OWN WORLD!”. Sometimes I enjoy it so much and choose to stay annoying people around me, like this Friday.

An internationally successful Irish band since early 1990s, The Cranberries has always been a household name among Chinese, especially in Hong Kong. Chinese singer Faye Wong’s “Dream Lover” (梦中人), a cover of “Dreams” by the Cranberries in 1993, was made hugely popular in Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai’s 1994 film Chungking Express (重庆森林). Today as In the End is released, the lead singer, Dolores O’Riordan has already passed away in January 2018 after drowned herself in a bathtub due to intoxication by alcohol.  It’s almost a miracle that with recordings made by Dolores before her tragic death this album was made, as a tribute to the great singer from Ireland.

To me it’s working like a miracle too. It was raining hard that day after work. I was walking home from the train station, feeling good about my body, a bit sore but satisfied after twisting and stretching with Nick, one of my favorite yoga instructors at Yoga Agora in Astoria. The BOSE infused the Cranberries into my ears:

I got this thing in my head, when I awake in my bed

While I was thinking about when I wondered if you thought about me

…...

I am not in my bed and I often don’t keep thinking about this kind of questions. With my hands full with two bags and an umbrella, walking down Steinway Street to my apartment in the rain, Dolores’ angelical soft voice suddenly struck me.

“I was thinking about when I wondered if you thought about me”...

Right at this moment, I wonder who’s thinking about me, and I wonder whom I am thinking about. Memories flashed as I was having her music in my ear, watching a car on Steinway blinking its head lights. The street smelled  like rain in spring, wet, fresh, with a touch of lingering coolness from the winter. It’s New York in April. Spring is still not fully here yet. I found myself walking very fast, surprised by how good the song is, and tears, just a little, came to my eyes.

Back in my apt, I searched for the song, Waiting in Walthamstow, and below is the lyrics:


I got this thing in my head, when I awake in my bed

While I was thinking about when I wondered if you thought about me

I’ve got a pain in my heart whenever we are apart

I’ve got a pain in my head when I awake in my bed

And I was waiting there for you, you were waiting there for me

I was waiting there for you, you were waiting there for me

Ah-ahah ah-ahah ah-ahah

I took the underground, I went eastbound

I went to Walthamstow

While you were waiting to see me there, I really really want you to know

I’ll never forget your kindness (ah ah), I’ll never forget your grace (ah ah)

I’ll never forget your honor (ah ah), you make the world a beautiful place (ah ah)

I was waiting there for you, you were waiting there for me

I was waiting there for you, you were waiting there for me

Lalalala, lalalala-la, lalalala-la

(Ah-ah-ah) In Walthamstow, in Walthamsto-ow-ow, Walthamsto-ow-ow

I was waiting there for you, you were waiting there for me

I was waiting there for you, you were waiting there for me

Lalalala-la, lalalala-la

Lalalalaa lala, lalalalaa lalalalala

Lalalala, lalalala, lalalala

Released in a 2012 album Roses, Dolores wrote the song herself. Walthamstow is a district in north-east London and was mentioned in a few songs before the Cranberries. I didn’t find any particular connection between the Cranberries or Dolores and Walthamstow. And I don’t know why I got so sentimental at that particular moment.

But it’s a living moment. And now I have a proof.

Astoria, New York

4/27/2019